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Woman's caftan orange and gold striped flowered brocade; high slit in side to expose trousers.

Woman's Caftan, 19th century

Iran

Not on View
Rectangle of ivory satin brocaded with figures of courtiers and ladies, rampant dogs and stags, couchant lions under palm trees, and large peacock, the latter with velvet necks and "eyes," separated from each other by stylized Renaissance fountains. The whole lined with apricot satin and edged with silk fringe of yellow, gold, ivory and turquoise. Last 8" cut away, leaving lining and fringe intact.

Panel, 17th century

Spain

Not on View
Priest's vestment; light blue and gold brocaded cape edged with gold braid, gold cross made of braid in center back.

Priest's vestment, 18th century

Iran

Not on View
Brocaded panel of polychrome design with small groups of figures around a central Buddha; mountains in background. Framed by dark purple and gold brocade, possibly Japanese. Note similarity to Tibetan painting; Tibetan-type altar hanging probably executed by Chinese artisans. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

The monk Hva Shang, early 19th century

China

G212

Empress' long sleeveless coat of yellow satin brocaded in shades of blue, green, aubergine, red, pink, and gold. On each side of front opening two rampant dragons, one above the other, the upper one clutching the heavenly jewel; in back, one sitting and two rampant dragons; all five-clawed. In the field loose cloud forms. Border of curling, over-lapping waves. Front, bottom, and sides (open except for a short joinunder arms) trimed with band of black velvet studded with brass studs and bordered with narrow strips of green and gold and red and gold brocade. At bottom a network of green fringe cording in long gold tassels hangs over a wide band of red satin. Lined with rose satin, lightly interlined with cotton batten.

Manchu Woman's Semiformal Court Vest, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

G210

Concubine robe of faded aubergine satin brocaded in blue, green, brown, shades of rose and gold. Nine large five-clawed dragons; one on front, one on back, one on each shoulder,Above border, front and back, two dragons in profile grasping the heavenly jewel. Ninth dragon under flap. Border of short, sinuous wave pattern in which each series of eight wave strips terminates in a curling wave spray roughly triform in shape. Border colors blue, aubergine, rose green, tan with narrow edges in pale green, ivory, pale blue, rose and yellow, with alternating gold lines. Body of robe decorated with loose cloud forms. Front and back panels split about 14' from bottom.Lining of faded rose raw silk. Concubine robes characterized by very large sitting five-clawed dragons, back and front. Sleeves finished with cuffs of same brocade. One of three concubine robes of same design, cf. 42.8.2, 42.8.3.

Manchu Man's Semiformal Robe, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Imperial robe of yellow satin brocaded in green, rose, blue, brown, black, red, orange, and gold. Nine 5-clawed dragons, tose in profile grasping the Heavenly Jewel. In field, loose cloud forms and five bats, the latter appearing in orbit of each of the profile dragons. Border of narrow, slightly wavy wave-stripes in alternating body colors, with clouds topping strips between stripe and curling area of waves. To each side of side seam, front and back, a swastika above the waves. Similar border, but without wave-stripes and swastike, at elbow of sleeves, which are finished with a length of widely ribbed yellow silk termintating in cuffs of dark blue satin brocade with bats, sitting dragons and cloud forms. Wide collar of same brocade, with band extending down opening to under arm. Body lined with thin blue silk, sleeves with thin yellow brocaded silk.

Manchu Woman's Semiformal Court Vest (hsia-pei), 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Court Robe of wine-red silk brocade in silvery white. Nine five-clawed dragons. In the field are loosely solid clouds, chrysanthemums, swastikas, Buddhist and Taoist emblems. Conventional border of slightly slanting stripes; single line of snail-like clouds; single line of deep-rolling waves fringed with spray. Below a black border of sleeves a strip of black-blue silk brocaded wtith body designs in silvery white. Edging of black and gold brocade. In body the only departure from red and silver tones are the black spots of the dragon's eyes. Robe unlined but faced.

Manchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe (jifu), 1909-1911

China

Not on View
Court robe of gold satin brocade with nine 5-clawed dragons. In the field are scattered very loose clouds, cranes, long-life characters, Buddhist and Taoist symbols. Conventional border of wavy slanting stripes(achieved by ribbing the brocade); rather deep tight clouds, cf. Kang Hsi; deeply rolling waves in which appear some Taoist emblems and some of the Eight Precious Things. Wide deep sleeves with no border and no cuff bound with double band of plain gold satin. Half collar band of gold satin; neck and opening bound with double satin band like sleeve band. The only variation from the gold tone of this robe is the area of the dragon's eyes which is ivory in tone. This may have been a woman's robe. Lining of thin tan silk of lozenge pattern.

Manchu Woman's Semiformal Court Robe, after 1850

China

Not on View
heavy white robe with golden rectangular bars, flowers, clouds; gold lined; padded hem

Wedding robe (uchikake), 20th century

Unknown Japanese

Not on View
maroon fabric; embroidered bands of various widths in greens, blue, yellow, orange, maroon and cream; fringe at short ends

Sash, 20th century

Laos

Not on View
skirt or wrapper, cotton, African (Nigerian, stored in box; 'Simmons African'; stored w/86.100.5,.7,.26); stripwoven, brocade, openwork, zigzag floats; black ground with red purple and light blue brocade

Skirt or Wrapper, 20th century

Yoruba

Not on View
Chair cover of brocaded taupe satin woven so that the design will appear in proper perspective on the front of the cahir, and on the strip that hangs down the back. Design of two 4-clawed dragons and a phoenix in gold and colors; lily bulbs, loose clouds and various good luck symbols in shades of blue, red, pink, yellow and green. The seat, apron and back areas are marked off one from the other by a band of running peony design in blue. Lining of deep gold-colored figured silk.

Chair cover, 19th century

China

Not on View
Priest's cowl of imperial yellow satin brocade with all-over design of bats and loose cloud forms in shades of blue, green, pink, red, brown, and mauve. Wide band of black and gold brocade aroung border. Narrow binding of rust-red satin. Lining of faded crimson figured silk.

Lamaist priest hat, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
brocaded flowers, diamond patterns and banding; three panels; finished blue edge on two side and wrap 1/6 way around to next side; polychrome on blue; five bands of decoration in each panel divided by colored bands; blue banding at center of division

Raincloak, 20th century

Bhutan

Not on View
Large curtain hanging of imperial yellow brocaded satin. Design of nine large five-clawed dragons in gold in a field of loose clouds. Below, the Eternal Sea, with symbols in the waves. At the top, a deep, pleated valance on which appear small gold dragons and clouds. Two loose strips of the same design, hang down the front of the main curtain. An imperial piece of superb quality. Lining in gold-colored damask of cloud design.

Imperial Curtain Hanging, mid 18th century

China

Not on View
Karaori (Outer Noh robe), brocade of grape vines with autumn grasses and gold bamboo lattice motif on blue-grey twill weave silk. The design is not created through embroidery as it appears to be, but with the Karaori brocade technique of floating the weft threads of glossed silk to create the various floral and lattice patterns. This allowed for only a few centimeters of fabric to be woven per day, making such robes extremely rare and expensive works of art. This garment has been used in only a few recorded performances since its manufacture accounting for its exceptionally fine condition.

Outer Noh robe of grape vines with autumn grasses, early 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Sheer white brocade fabric with diagonal vines; slits at sides with 2 pairs of ties at waist and button at neck; small pocket on PR side at waist

Rajput robe, 18th century

India

Not on View

Shinto priest's robe (kariginu), 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Hat, Priest's, black; belongs with yellow silk brocade Priest's robe. (14.86a)

Shinto priest's hat (ebĹŤshi), 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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brocaded panel; deep rose background with cloud, dragon and pheasant motif.

Chair cover, 18th century

China

Not on View
Woman's Tunic of yellow brocade with all-over floral pattern in different colors. Lined with blue printed cotton. The sleeves are open - being held together under the arm by black tapes - and near the cuff by metal buttons. Metal brocade.

Woman's Tunic, 19th century

Iran

Not on View
half metallic brocade on maroon ground, half orange, red and black floral brocade on cream ground

Belt, 20th century

Morocco

Not on View
Dragon robe similar to 48.2.1 and 2, but of apple green satin brocaded in blue, brown, green, shades of rose and gold. Same border design and same colors as in 42.8.1. Neck bound with narrow black satin, cuffs with narrow green silk. Slit front and back. Lined with faded pink silk and interlines(?).

Manchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Short jacket (theater?) made up of ivory diamond shaped pieces of satin and brocade, each embroidered with a flower spray or symbol. The colors include blue, green, crimson, rust, pale violet, yellow, pink, white, mauve, peach and mustard color. Embroidery chiefly in satin stitch; some knot and outline stitch. Wide sleeves finished with a band of white satin embroidered with bats, butterflies, flowers, in pastel satin stitch and couched gold. Shaped collar band of colored segments of satin and brocade embroidered with a design of flowers and good luck symbols in colors in satin stitch. Coat slit at sides, open in front, and lined with thin blue silk of swastika pattern.

SHORT COAT, 19th century

China

Not on View
Coat with solid needlepoint ground of all-over lozenge and swastika design in pale shades of pink, grey, tan, green and peach. In lower area appear dragons and chilin; in the upper area and on sleeves appear elephants, and between are phoenix. The long-life characters in the field, as well as the blankets of the elephants,are embroidered in peacock feathers. Cuffs, collar, and edged are bordered with gold and black brocade. Standing collar of the needlepoint. Lining of soft blue satin damask with large floral pattern. Note Mrs. Harris says this robe is reputed to have been worn by the Empress while bearing a child as all the symbols are thought to bring good luck.

Coat, 19th century

China

Not on View
Collar of dark blue brocaded silk with two five-clawed dragons in gold. Surrounding clouds in shades of blue and green. The collar is banded, along border and over shoulders, with gold threads couched in red. Border of black and gold brocade. Lining of crimson and gold brocade. Heavily padded. Inscription. Lining worn at edges. Cf. dragons with 42.8.7 and other K'ang Hsi robes.

Manchu Man's Formal Court Collar, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
panel with floral medallions

Panel, 19th century

France

Not on View
half gold geometric patterning on purple ground and half purple, red and yellow floral patterning on white ground, with band of orange on white geometric patterning near end

Belt, 20th century

Morocco

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Imperial green gold brocade robe for a prince of the court (8 dragons instead of the imperial 9). The symbol of a crowing cock backed by the rising sun appears on the front and sleeves, indicating the robe might have belonged to the heir apparent.

Manchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Brocade: ground of deep salmon ribbed silk, with large serpentine vine design in silver and salmon

Panel, 18th century

Spain

Not on View
Maroon ground with yellow flowers; border of 2 pairs of white lines flanking row of circles; brocade

Fragment, 18th century

Not on View
green silk

Robe, 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Rare temple hanging of leaf green brocade. All-over pattern composed of various square, octagon, and trefoil bordered medallions, each beating floral sprays or stylized blossoms. The medallions all carry floral or diapered borders, producing an effect of great richness and intricacy. The color is chiefly green, with shades of red, blue, yellow and pink contributing a lightness to the scheme. Border of gold and blue brocade of interlocking 'Y' design. The piece is made up of two widths sewed together, and is limed with a fine eggshell silk with wild goose medallions in openwork. Medallions also carry two characters of rather archaic flavor.

Temple Hanging, 1368-1644

China

Not on View
Hanging, large, yellow satin, with woven bands of flowers and symbols in red, green, blue, and white. Vertical seam down center. Green border with all-over brocaded design of pink, tan and red flowers and blue stems and leaves. Light brown cotton lining.

Curtain, early 1800s

China

Not on View

Dress fabric panel, 18th century

England

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Altar frontal of pale brick-colored k'ossu. In the center of the lower section a large, seated four-clawed dragon in dull gold with a longevity character in the curve of its tail. Loose, fat clouds and bats in shades of green, blue, yellow and tan. Below, the waves of the Eternal Sea with Taoist symbols. Above, in the valance section set off from main field by a band of dark blue and gold brocade, are three pale brick-colored medallions on an apple green k'ossu ground. In the end medallions two slender dragons of K'ang Hsi type; in central medallion the two dragons are spearated by a longevity symbol. Surrounding the medallions, bats and fat clouds in shades of blue, brown, yellow, and tan. All-around applied border of two-fold dark blue and gold brocade. Lining of steel gray satin damask. Note dragon's face and tail have been restored by applying sections of finer, later k'ossu. A.P. says Faded and poor quality, but still I think K'ang Hsi.

Altar Frontal, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Imperial robe, probably woman's, of sand colored satin embroidered with weight 5-clawed dragons, tight cloud forms, bats, Buddhist emblems and flowers in shades of pale blue, ivory, tan and soft brown. Border with shallow area of straight-edged slanting stripes topped with rolling waves dotted with large peony blossoms and swastika. Narrow cuffs, collar and band of brown satin embroidered with floral pattern in shades of blue and white in satin stitch. Embroidery on body chiefly of satin stitch, but dragons in couched gold, emblems, red flowers in border of knot stitch. Slit at sides and lined with sand-colored satin. Robe has a look of great age and is stained noticeably along back border.

Woman's Dragon Robe, Tao Kuang period, 1821-1850

China

Not on View
sleeveless blouse with V-neck, front and back; tan with brown geometric design; decorated with tubular seeds and red and green pompons

Woman's Tunic, 20th century

Khami

Not on View
maroon, yellow and brown diamond pattern body; band around hem in multicolored geometric pattern on maroon-rust ground

Skirt, first half of the 20th century

Lao

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sarong with black band at top; background is vertical stripes in repeating pattern of pale blue, pale yellow, pale tan, pale brown, pale pink with horizontal repeating stitched pattern on top; stitched pattern in brown with red, yellow, green and blue accents

Sarong, 20th century

Shan

Not on View
central area of purple loosely-woven field with overall design of gold and red flowers around central medallion; gold, silver, yellow, red floral and geometric borders; red end borders; netting sewn to back of side applied bands; brocaded

Woman's veil, c. 1850

India

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jacquard fabric with tailormade trim

Caftan, 20th century

Tetouan

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red fabric with gold thread; red borders along short edges; gold embroidery throughout in abstract geometric design; gold stripes along long edges; gold bands with circles along long edges; bands with floral design and triangles pointed toward short edges; six-spoke wheel/star motif in bands; bird motif next to spoke-style stars (?); diamond and six- and eight-point stars with geometric and spiral decoration throughout; short folded and stitched seams along short edges

Shoulder cloth (slendang), early 20th-mid 20th century

Indonesia

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(Initially a 'ch'ao-fu' court robe; altered in Tibet for ritual Lamaist dances, large triangular panels and striped cuffs were added to the original tapered sleeves.) Court Robe of dark blue satin; in upper section, back and front, a shaped panel extending over shoulders with large four-clawed dragon in gold; clouds, bats, and Eternal Sea motif in shades of blue, green, yellow, rose and rust; at back and front waistline, where skirt of robe is seamed to upper section, a band of dragons and clouds in gold and colors; a wider band of the same borders the skirt all around ten inches from the bottom; collar band and border of gold and black floral brocade; standing collar of fuschia cotton; large wing-like sleeves made of black satin and strips of green, yellow and crimson satin brocade with an outer border of the black and gold floral brocade; canvas lining; note tailoring of this robe, with the wide skirt caught into stiff pleats over the hips, and the long, triangular sleeves; A.P.( Alfred Pillsbury) thinks a court robe remodelled for Lama Dances

Formal Court Robe Altered for Lamaist Ritual Dance, late 19th century

Tibet

Not on View
three pieces sewn together, hemmed at top and bottom; brocaded and striped twill; unraveled traded wool in red, yellow, black and white on indigo dyed native ramie foundation; zigzag and square borders with vertical red stripes and triangles in yellow, black, red and white. Woven fabric

Woman's Shawl, 19th century

Taiwan

Not on View
Skirt of red k'ossu weave, the side sections gored, bound with black satin, and decorated in the lower area with phoenix, cloud, and Eternal Sea motif in shades of blue, green, yellow, apricot, mauve, and pink. Main panels have a seated five-clawed dragon in gold thread; bats, clouds, Buddhist symbols, and Eternal Sea in the same colors used in side sections. Main panels and bottom bordered with a band of black satin embroidered with Buddhist symbols in shades of blue and edged iwth band of medium blue satin. Lining of faded pink diapered silk.

Skirt, 19th century

China

Not on View
Long valance of solid embroidery with ground of solid gold-colored silk floss. The design represents an aged statesmen and his wife receiving guests on the occasion of their birthday. This us the same scene as is represented in C.205. In the valance section appear the Eight Immortals. Borders of black satin brocade with a design of flowers in blue and white. Lining of pinkish cotton. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Valance, Kangxi period, 1621-1722

China

Not on View
Priest Robe, mulberry and gold brocade with four small squares of light blue and gold brocade set in.

Buddhist priest's robe (kesa), 18th century

Unknown Japanese

Not on View
Skirt made up of colored silks of cloud pattern yellow, dark blue, apricot, white, red, light blue, grey, etc.; accordion-pleated in sigle sections. Main panels of brick red color with applique design of sage with flowers embroidered in couched gold threads and colored silks. Triple, shaped border of black satin embroidered in blue; white silk and pale blue silk braid with floral design in colors. Same triple border at bottom of skirt. Panels lined with green silk of diaper pattern.

Skirt, 19th century

China

Not on View
Child's coat of greenish-brown silk of brocaded design embroidered in satin stitch with an all-over design of loose, thin clouds and cranes in shades of blue, green, and white. Cuffs, bottom,a nd opening banded with black satin embroidered with peony design in blues. A band of the same is applied around body of coat at waistline. Short collar band of black satin embroidered with floral design in blue and gold. Two ties of the greenish silk attached to coat at waist. Lining of faded orange gauze.

Chinese Child's Unofficial Informal Robe, 19th century

China

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Temple banners, pair, made up of five long strips of various brocades and attached to a flat, shaped plaque of wood covered with gold-colored satin brocade and bordered with a shaped band of brown velvet. The brocades making up each banner strip include pale gold-colored satin with rows of dragon medallions and stylizedclouds in gold and colors; tan and gold; green satin with dragon medaliions and clouds; blue with large medallion diaper; deep gold color with large flowers in green; etc. Lining of faded brick-red raw silk.

Temple Banner, 18th century

China

Not on View
Imperial top coat of midnight blue twilled silk embroidered with eight large medallions in which five-clawed dragons in gold couched work and satin stitch, surrounded by long life characters, bats with the double peach, and tight cloud forms against a meander fretwork in gold. At bottom of medallion, in area representing the sea and earth, a swastika, loop and stem stitch used. Wide border of slanting straight stripes topped with cloud forms and curling waves. All in shades of blue and white, in which appear swastikas and Taoist emblems ing old and silver threads. Wide cuffs with bands of embroidery repeating body designs. Coat open down a straight front, slit up back, and lined with thin yellow silk.

Imperial Top Coat, 19th century

China

Not on View
long fringe; orange, red and purple bands; brocade

Panel, 20th century

Laos

Not on View
silk blue and gold brocade patchwork, lined, gold backing, orange material

Buddhist priest’s robe with design of chrysanthemums and peonies, 18th-19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Taoist priest's robe of gold satin brocade of dragon medallion design. On back conventional Taoist design embroidered in couched gold thread and couched twist in colors on applied salmon silk panel. Borders of black satin solidly embroidered in same technique and colors. Lower section of side borders of blue satin embroidered in satin stitch with bats, clouds and symbols in colored silks. Lining of burnt orange satin of floral medallion design.

Taoist Priest's Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

Not on View
weft interlock tapestry and brocade patterning; blue/green and metallic gold; red/orange band on one end

Sari, 20th century

India

Not on View
Brocade: blue satin with a silver pattern of pomegranates and grapes

Panel, 19th century

Russia

Not on View
6 individual strips machine stitched together

Cloth, 20th century

Yoruba

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Brocade: on a ground of basket-weave silk, mauve, faded, pattern in gold thread of sprays of leaves with ribbons; part of an ecclesiastical robe

Panel, 18th century

Russia

Not on View
Temple banners, pair, made up of five long strips of various brocades and attached to a flat, shaped plaque of wood covered with gold-colored satin brocade and bordered with a shaped band of brown velvet. The brocades making up each banner strip include pale gold-colored satin with rows of dragon medallions and stylizedclouds in gold and colors; tan and gold; green satin with dragon medaliions and clouds; blue with large medallion diaper; deep gold color with large flowers in green; etc. Lining of faded brick-red raw silk.

Temple Banner, 18th century

China

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White brocading on white plain weave; repeated floral motifs; stripe of metallic threads flanked with red at bottom with geometric design halfway across above stripes

Panel, 19th century

India

Not on View
Panel of petit point embroidery with diapered ground of interlocking octagons and lozenges, each containing a stylized blossom. In the lower section are three groups of some of the Hundred Antiques. Predominating colors are green, blue and yellow. Top edge bound with blue satin. Note unfinished section in the group of vessels at the lower right, and restoration with a piece of diapered brocade above the brush pot to the left. Lining of gold colored gauze.

Pictorial Valance, 18th century

China

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Buddhist priest robe of assembled panels of brocaded red silk, each outlined with gold foil paper, and embroidered in couched gold threads with spotted deer,bats and good luck characters. In the upper center, a seated figure of Buddha embroidered in satin stitch in colored silks. Border embroidered with lotus and greek key motifs in couched gold thread. Soiled and faded. Liningthin flame-red silk.

Buddhist Priest Robe, 19th century

China

Not on View
Valance shaped, of faded rust-red, K'ossu bordered by a dark blue band carrying sprays of various flowers. In the field, five five-clawed dragons, three in gold and two in pale blue, pursue the heavenly jewel among lossely drawn clouds and bats. At the base of the side panels, slanting wavy stripes scattered with jui-type clouds and rolling billows. Spray, jewels and artemesia leaf emerge from waves. Across the top of the valance a broad band of bluish-green K;ossu carrying large sparys of peonies flanked by phoenix in flight. Dominant colors are rust, blue, brown, cream and deep peach. K'ossu closely woven. Lining of tan cotton.

Door hanging, 1662-1722

China

Not on View
Japanese Buddhist robe made of squares of gold, tan, green and blue brocade, teal blue lining, worn.

Buddhist priest's robe (kesa), 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Imperial orange satin robe embroidered with nine gold five-clawed dragons, and double-peach and bat motifs in rose, blue, henna, green, etc. satin stitch.

Dragon Robe, 1736-1795

China

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Cranberry colored with geometric designs and stripes in gold metallic thread around edges; thin green and white border above fringe on 2 sides; fringe of long strands twisted with multicolored threads. Woven fabric

Head shawl, c. 1950–1960

Syria

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One panel huipil with square-cut neck opening; white ground cloth with black geometric brocade patterns; neckline and armholes have an applied embroidered.

Woman's blouse (Huipil), c. 1970

Poqoman Maya

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Fragment, 18th century

France

Not on View

Panel, 18th century

France

Not on View

Fragment, 17th century

France

Not on View

Panel, 17th century

France

Not on View

Fragment, 18th century

France

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Fragment, 18th century

France

Not on View

Panel, 17th century

France or Italy

Not on View

Panel, 18th century

France

Not on View

Fragment, 18th century

France

Not on View

Panel, 18th century

France

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Panel, 18th century

France

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Panel, 16th-17th century

Italy

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Fragment, 18th century

France

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Fragment, 18th century

France

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Panel, 16th-17th century

Italy

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Panel, 18th century

France

Not on View

Panel, 18th century

France

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Panel, 18th century

France

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Panel, 18th century

France

Not on View

Fragment, 17th century

France

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Panel, 18th century

France

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Panel, 17th century

France

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Runner, 17th century

Italy

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Fragment, 18th century

France

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Fragment, 16th-17th century

Italy

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Fragment, 18th century

France

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Fragment, 18th century

France

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Pillow, one of a pair, 20th century

United States

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Brocade piece, Date Unknown

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Brocade piece, 18th century

Spain or Italy

Not on View

Short Jacket, 19th century

Iran

Not on View

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