medium:"silk, embroidery"
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Colcha with tree of life and allegory of the sense of smell
Altar Hanging
Throne-back Cover
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Linen, silk embroidery flossexpand_more
The Paul C. Johnson, Jr. Fundexpand_more 2021.97
This coverlet, or colcha, was made in the town of Castelo Branco in the Beira-Beixa region of Portugal. The Castelo Branco style of embroidery emerged in the seventeenth-century in response to and in dialogue with European export embroideries produced in India and Goa. Shared motifs often included the tree of life as well as both Asian and European flowers, as seen in this example. But Castelo Branco embroideries have some distinctive features that set them apart from their imported counterparts. Chief among these is the lighter pastel Castelo Branco color palette reflected in the locally-produced silk embroidery floss, and the use of couched laid stitches which gives the overall needlework design both a luminous sheen and a stepped, almost woven, appearance where the couching stitches cross and bind the smooth floss.