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brown background with figurative and geometric imagery embroidered in orange, red, purple, green, white and yellow; black ink-like writing in corners; possible scattered embroidered text — Phulkari, 20th century
India

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four distinct bands; top band embroidered brown and black diamond and floral patterns; two central bands of embroidered floral designs, with fish on top and dragons below, on purple and red fields; lower band applique floral groups; tassels attached throughout — Wall decoration, 20th century
Miao

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towel end of loosely woven cotton embroidered with three sprays and having at each end a running leaf design as a border; rose, blue, green and metal threads the bottom and sides whipped with gold thread; silk on cotton — Towel end, 19th century
Turkey

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handkerchief of loosely woven cotton embroidered around the edges with a series of flower and tree designs, and having in each corner a geometrical basket and flowers; rose, red, blue, green and gold threads; a type of buttonhole stitch makes a braid-like finish to the edges — Handkerchief, 18th century
Turkey

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towel, loosely woven tan linen, embroidered at each end with three floral sprays, each bearing three flowers and two leaves in blue and red; on one end sprays with blue flowers flank one with red; on the other, and on other side of the material the position is reversed - a line of blue over-stitch forms a narrow border at the ends which are backed with a piece of floral dimity — Towel, 18th century
Turkey

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Towel-scarf, of fine material embroidered in colored silks, gold thread and tinsel in a border at each end made of five vertical green stalks with bands of pink and gold flowers between every two stalks. Finished the same at each side. Gold lace finishes each end. Both sides bound with a white silk thread. Seam in center. Cotton, silk embroidery. — Towel-scarf, 19th century
Turkey

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towel scarf of natural linen woven with self stripes, embroidered on each end with three conventionalized flower motifs in cream, tan, blue, green, and metal threads, and two tree (?) motifs; border at each end and part way up sides composed of running leaf and vine design; ends finished with a narrow fringe; silk on cotton — Towel scarf, 19th century
Turkey

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towel scarf of closely woven cotton material embroidered at each end with three horizontal spiny leaf sprays in shades of pink, yellow and green silk and green raffia; there is a narrow border of wavy stem, leaf and flower design across the bottom which is finished with a buttonhole stitch edging in brown silk extending part way up the sides; one side finished with selvedge, the other with whipped hem — Towel scarf, 19th century
Turkey

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embroidery, piece of; with flowers and spiny leaf design in blue, green, and henna red. Much of the design obliterated by wear; probably fragment of curtain; selvedge sides with one end hemmed and the other unfinished; silk on cotton — Piece, 18th century
Turkey

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white ground with two embroidered squares with red, purple, green, light green, pink, black and white — Panel for Pant Ties, 1930-1940
Iran

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embroidered panels for vest front — Vest, 1900-1925
Syria

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white dress with ten embroidered squares, lower center of front, and embroidered border at cuffs; long triangular extensions to sleeve of blue and gold stripe with tassel at bottom; embroidery in blue, black, green, red — Dress, 1966-1999
Syria

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black ground, bound in red; geometric embroidery motifs in center; borders of rows of animals; embroidery in gold, red, green, white — Phulkari, early 20th century
India

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tunic with solid blue body with applique embroidered decorative side panels, shoulders and collar; decorative theme of triangles within squares in colors of red/green or red/blue; ribbons of fabric grouped along edges (extensions of the design) — Ngoshingka (tunic), 20th century
Bhutan

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Pulkari, India — Pulkari, 19th century
India

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red plain weave cotton with simple embroidery at neck opening; silk ties with tassels; embroidery at cuffs with tassels at ends; embroidery up from seam on bottom edge at front approximately 20 in. — Dress, 1890
Syria

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black panel with black knotted fringe on short sides and long brown and tan tassels at corners; squares, rectangles and bands of flower or star, swastika and other geometric motifs embroidered overall in white, pale green, brown and blue — Wedding headpiece, Date Unknown
Yao

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red cotton embroidered with silk; bright yellow/gold floral motifs; broad bands of embroidery at each end — Pulkari (Head Coverning), 1900-1925
India

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embroidered panel with 6 shrimps surrounded by organic swirls at top; 5 shrimps surround a bird with long tailfeathers at bottom; pinks, reds, gold and brown; blue edging; black backing — Apron, Date Unknown
Miao

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24 squares with appliqué; blue border bands; each square has central embroidered rondel of blue or black; organic red appliqués with grey, black and blue edges — Patchwork panel, Date Unknown
Miao

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2 panels, sewn; ecru background embroidered with pink, pale ochre silk — Ceremonial Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Yao

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long narrow banner with horizontal stripes of bright pink, yellow, aqua, rust, gold, purple, dark green and cream interspersed with narrow bands and wider bands of geometric design; most of narrow bands have design of rectangles with circles in middle — Buddhist temple banner, 20th century
Vietnam

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yellow; longer sleeves; keyhole opening with button closure at back of neck; embroidered overall with red flower-like medallions and purple, green and red various small designs; long red embroidered panel with heart-like and flower motifs at front; red geometric designs on shoulders — Shirt, early-mid 20th century
Pakistan

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dark brown skirt with horizontal bands of embroidery in dark green, dark blue, cream, red and rust; three smaller bands at top and three at bottom with embroidered horizontal lines and embroidered angled lines; wide embroidered horizontal band in middle of skirt of bold geometric design; rust colored binding at each side edge; intermittent decorative loops of thread at top and bottom of embroidered bands — Skirt, 20th century
Maa

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wide sleeved black dress with embroidered panel from shoulders down to four separate embroidered medallion shapes near hem; panel in three sections (chest, waist and apron) embroidered in rust red, pale orange and gold threads in geometric, circle and border patterns; back panel from shoulder to waist with "V" pattern and medallions incorporated in overall panel; triangular and circular embroidered areas at top of sleeves; small straight opening at neckline — Dress, 20th century
Yemen

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dark blue skirt with embroidered panel and horizontally striped fabric at top; embroidered panel in pink, gray and brown in geometric patterns; pink, gray and brown striped panels above and below embroidered panel; solid dark blue fabric panel at bottom of skirt — Skirt, 20th century
Tai Dam

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black ground; geometric, floral and figural design including pairs of figures in a hut; pastel peach, blue, yellow and green — Panel (for a Baby Carrier?), Date Unknown
Miao

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black lined baby carrier; center top and lower center have woven small diamond pattern in dark multicolors; top center and side verticals have applied tape--some in woven pattern; dark red, black, brown, maroon — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black lining; lower portion, center panel--geometric shapes embroidered on red background in blue, green and white, bordered in vertical embroidered bands and tapes; upper part--horizontal embroidered bands bordered by vertical embroidered bands; red dominant with white, blue, green — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black lining; lower panel has large geometric embroidered squares--blue background, red, green, gold and white; bordered with vertical applied embroidered bands and tapes; upper panel center--horizontal embroidered bands and plain tapes with same vertical sides of woven bands and tape; patterned woven tape, top and side border — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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center is black cotton diamond with appliqued pink, yellow and blue embroidery forming a flower; four borders and triangles at corners are silk in pink, green and blue with floral and leaf embroidery; lined in black — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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coarse black cotton lining--entire surface heavily embroidered/appliqued in geometric patterns in mainly red with green, orange, blue, white; lower portion has large square of embroidery bordered by vertical mulitcolored tapes; upper section has horizontal center bordered by vertical multicolored tapes — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black lining; geometric embroidery on red woven background on lower center panel; bordered by vertical embroidered bands and plain tapes; center panel of top has horizontal embroidered bands and satin tapes bordered by similar vertical tapes and bands — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black, T-shaped panel; predominately decorated with horizontal bands of alternating floral and organic embroidered squares and tightly-appliquéd stars in squares, zigzag appliqué bands and organic scroll embroidered bands; trimmed in dark multicolored striped fabric and embroidered ribbon-like bands in bright colors; predominately royal blue strips separate main decorative bands — Baby carrier, c. 1960s
China

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black breast cover with red, green, yellow, pink, purple, lavender, blue and white embroidery; vertical stripes at either side of breast cover with embroidered geometric pattern; narrow horizontal blue and white bands (four); three wider multicolored horizontal bands; fabric has narrow red strip at top and bottom edge; side edges have one stitch wide red embroidered border; fabric has four dark purple lines in fabric on either side of blue and white lines — Breast cover, 20th century
Khumi

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black with rough-woven tan and khaki fabric at top; rows of appliquéd orange and red bands; bottom hem decorated with red and yellow zigzags and pink and white cross stitch — Skirt, Date Unknown
Hmong

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dark indigo, with lighter panels inside each leg; embroidery on outer legs and inner ankles, primarily in white-star/ snowflake, diamond, swastika and geometricized floral motifs; crotch panel has green and blue stitched cross stitch symbols(?) — Woman's pants, 20th century
Yao

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indigo blue; ends trimmed with off-white cording and decorated with snowflake-like cross stitch designs in white, pale green, magenta, yellow and blue — Turban, c. 1950
Yao

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cream fabric ground with overall red embroidery in diamond pattern with pairs of green arrowhead-like shapes — Phulkari (Head Cover/ Shawl), 19th century
India

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large black cotton baby carrier with embroidered, plain, and brocade silk in rose, red, blue, and green floral pattern; embroidered floral pattern in pink, purple, green, and orange; trimmed with narrow embroidered bands with silver braid trim; blue, green and black applique; small top panel (5" x 5") criss-crossed with brown strips forming ties — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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wide blue border surrounds a large rectangle bordered by cross stitch band in red, green, blue; center--red background in scrolled and circle pattern--green, yellow and blue; lower section: border has similar scrolled pattern; same colors; center has two squares of embroidery surrounded by black; indigo lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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small upper section with applique square with ovals and scallops in red, blue, green and black; bottom section has black center with abstract applique; blue side borders cross stitched in pink and red; bottom red border cross stitched with green silk embroidered patches at corners; 4"-6" rolled strings at bottom corners — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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extremely long blue denim ties on 57" embroidered band with center red floral embroidery with metallic trim and green silk and white cotton borders; lower part is bordered with lavender, blue, white and green; floral center is embroidered in cross chains and plain stitch with French knots in red, green and purple; lined in blue denim — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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lined with bound edges; dark tightly woven, patterned sections divided by plain fabric and woven bands; black predominates with some light green and blue; black attached flap with geometric embroidery in lavender and purple — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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upper section has vertical rectangle of batik bordered in pink, blue and green braid; lower section has two squares of embroiderey over paper pattern in red, green, gold and white; both sections bordered on all four sides by same embroidery over paper — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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top center section of elaborate scroll and circle embroidery in red, green, white, yellow, blue; surrounded on top and sides by rows of embroidery and applied tape in same colors, and wide, 3-1/2" light green border; bottom section has two 6-1/2" prominent squares of embroidery in red, black, white, yellow and green surrounded by scroll embroidery in red, pink, black, green on white background; blue lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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top center section of elaborate geometric embroidered circles and corner starbursts in red, green, yellow and white, surrounded on top and sides by rows of embroidery and applied tape in same colors and wide (3") green satin border; bottom section has two 5-1/2" embroidered squares surrounded by smaller squares and corners, all in black scroll embroidery with red and green highlights; 1" green side border and 1-1/2" black bottom border; blue lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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blue and red borders surround center block of coarsely woven and embroidered white cotton fabric with rows of embroidered animals (some mythical) and symbols; 5" embroidered band runs horizontally through center; vertical center seam joins center design blocks; signs of stitching where it may have been lined at an earlier time — Blanket, Date Unknown
Miao

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blue, green and red; 9 bands of embroidered, star-shaped motifs separated by narrow bands of multi-colors; top half edged in same band of star shapes; bottom half in striped blue fabric and embroidered floral band; applied to a stiff black fabric (pounded indigo?); lined in soft black cloth — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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two parts handsewn together; upper smaller blue part with geometric embroidery in yellow, shades of red, white and black, bordered with machine embroidered scalloped edge in red and green; lower part overall geometric embroidery in green, red, and blue, surrounded by bright pink silk border; PL top corner has pink insert — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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three connected sections; blue satin section has center circle with 4 tree-like shapes, braid edge and sequins in embroidered flora and fauna; 3 sided border similar plus Asian symbols; scalloped triangles on 2 corners, 23 1/2" braid ties on 2 corners; red satin section has center rectangle with brown brocade border all embroidered in flora and fauna with sequins and braid edge in blue, red, green, pink, brown; 4 1/4" x 4" pocket on PR flaps over red section with smaller flap, all embroidered; pounded indigo section not embroidered; has ties on all 4 corners — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black, white and green rectangular flap, 16-1/2" x 14", sewn to top is very sophisticated geometric pattern of squares in cross stitch; main body is overall geometric embroidery in green and blue bordered in silk and woven cotton on black; white gusset-like patches embroidered with blue, pink and brown butterflies; remaining part of ties repeat this motif; black lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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top black section has two red embroidered appliques, one damask, floral patterns, bordered in blue; eight 7" tassels in pink or teal hang loose from blue border; lower indigo section has 10" of 13 hand and commercial embroidered stiprs; multicolored; blue lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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apron-like shape with strings at top corners; small slightly flared black panel in center surrounded on three sides with wide cross stitched and embroidered borders in red, green, gold and black on tan — Embroidery Sample, Date Unknown
Miao

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black cotton; distinguishable by tiny doughnut-like embroidery mixed in with braid embroidery on entire body and border of baby carrier; this is sewn on in horizontal strips interspersed with strips of silk applique and/or striped printed cotton on border; blue, red, green and white on black; black lining; long raw edges from where straps have been removed are lapped over and sewn down — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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three pieced dark lining; upper part has applique scrolled pattern on red background surrounding two squares, approximately 3", white, green, pink and black; lower has similar scroll applique on red surrounding large floral applique with two birds in lower corners; narrow multicolored tape border with wide green border — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black; three sections; top section has straps; straps, top and middle sections have appliques of birds and flowers in blue, green, pink, grey, red; bottom section is solid black; blue lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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upper section has applique scroll pattern with two squares, approx. 3" with red, white, black on green; lower part has scroll applique in same colors surrounding black butterfly and 2 corner black dragons wide blue side borders on three sides; top border, green, black and white pattern — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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eleven scalloped octagons with delicately embroidered pictograms on off-white long narrow panel; octagons separated by two embroidered triangles; banded on three sides by 2-1/2" black band and 1-1/4" brown tape; top is selvedge; some embroidery is silk thread; embroidery colors: blue, pink, black — Embroidery Sample, Date Unknown
Miao

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square completely covered in geometric cross stitch in green and purple on orange, bordered in green; previously lined but lining removed — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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central panel predominately pink and red, embroidered with flowers, fish and insects; body is pieced with orange, purple, green and tan triangles; brown striped backing — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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top band of black velvet; other three borders are green silk damask; center rectangle is appliqued layers of silk with mainly abstract designs embroidered over; two small squares in upper part and one larger square in lower part in red, green, black and white; 5 narrow appliqued strips frame the embroidery; lining is blue and white woven cotton — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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overall scroll applique in circular patterns edged in pink and tan cording; center 15" red background; side borders, 5-1/2" gray background; corner and center appliques of green silk; black background and lining — Baby Carrier (?), Date Unknown
Miao

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black rectangle with approximately 6" embroidered borders on long ends, strips of red silk in centers have 5 embroidered panels bordered by silk bands — Embroidery Sample, Date Unknown
Miao

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red and green scrolled applique; top has center applique and embroidered design with small hearts in red, green and black; lower section has 2 small squares in same technique--hearts and swirls; border of narrow applied narrow tapes in red, orange, black, green, yellow; dark pieced lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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black indigo lining; dark embroidered piece; geometric floral and butterfly designs in shades of pink and gray; surrounded by woven geometric broder--black and grey; narrow pieces edging on three sides; top border has horizontal woven band in black and grey; three attached loops--center and each corner on top — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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triangular shaped with 14" center square on silk; embroidered and appliqued in red, green and black with many birds, insects, animals, flowers and one small boatman; cotton background constructed of small triangles in red, blue, green, purple and white sewn in squares; purple lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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upper applique scrolled design with six black and white pinwheels surrounding two (approx. 3 1/2") squares in red, white, green and orange; lower panel has a large center square with scroll work surrounding dragon-like creature; around square more scroll work with three birds and two worms--color as above; narrow multicolored tapes and wider blue border all around; dark 3 piece lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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center panel of purple silk brocade bordered in black with spiral embroidered and appliqued narrow bands; blue, black, white, magenta and green; blue lining — Baby carrier cover, 20th century
Hmong

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red, blue, green, pink leaf embroidery on black ground; red looped cording attached to top edge carries red corded drawstring; no lining; cotton ground with silk or cotton embroidery — Bag, c. 1925
Qutayife

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vertical rows of applique and embroidery in geometric patterns in yellow, orange, pink and green; fringe on bottom is very thin, woven; band has continuous diamond embroidery; lined in blue — Apron, early 20th century
Hmong

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sleeveless vest robe; handwoven; indigo dyed; cotton cloth with colored silk embroidery--gold, dark red, green, blue, yellow; flared style with long wide side vents; left front overlap — Robe, c. 1900
Qutayife

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completely embroidered piece; top still has ties which are integral to whole piece, with flora and fauna embroidered on orange applique silk; tie pieces border center square in green silk with four mitered sections with orange square in center; bottom "tail" has center black appliqued section couched in gold in commercial tape; orange and green tape borders tail on three sides; lined in denim — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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top section: applique border design surrounding two squares (approx 3 1/2") in reds, green, white and gray; lower panel has center square (approx. 6") surrounded in 3 sides by similar applique on red, embroidered with green, purple, pink and white; border on 4 sides by applied narrow tape in multicolors; patterned lining — Baby Carrier, Date Unknown
Miao

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dark blue background with white, purple, red, brown embroidery (stripes) — Ceremonial Headpiece, Date Unknown
Yao

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black background embroidered with white and brown — Ceremonial Headcloth, Date Unknown
Yao

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black shoulder cloth with multicolored embroidery and embroidered orange silk hem at one end; embroidery pattern on main panel of cloth of small crosses and lines; on silk hem panels are embroidered geometric motifs in green, gold and purple threads; solid black fabric border at bottom of cloth — Shoulder cloth, 20th century
Unknown Thai

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tube skirt; three sections-top plain grey; second plain red; third plain black with red slubs; bottom embroidered with animal motifs including a tiger and an elephant; floral and geometric motifs around animals; wide bands of geometric embroidery in tan color above and below animals; other colors include pink, red and purple in and around animals; crochet along bottom edge; small panel added to top band — Skirt, 20th century
Thai Muang

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tube skirt in four sections; top band blue; second band red; third black with red and tan vertical stripes; fourth band red and gold horizontal stripes with embroidery at bottom; three bands of embroidery-top triangles in tan; center stripes in pink, lavender, orange and magenta; bottom diamonds in same colors with tan triangles separating colored bands; vertical stripes alongside seam of embroidery section — Skirt, 20th century
Thai Dam

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envelope-style bag; back/main body has black diamonds with maroon, orange and white geometric stitching (with some green details); front/edges are rust with rows of yellow, blue, green and white stitches; four stitched diamonds with zigzags, triangles and diamonds in predominately gold, yellow and maroon; orange, yellow and magenta pompons — Dowry bag, Second quarter of the 20th century
Banjara

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blue and white checks with rectangular areas of white and purple bands and triangular design; white spiral embroidery — Shirt, one of a three piece outfit, 20th century
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blue and white checks with rectangular areas of white and purple bands and triangular design; white spiral embroidery — Pants, one of a three piece outfit, 20th century
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black fabric with orange, light green and fuschia geometric embroidery on bottom edge and halfway up R and L edges; black threads with red, fuschia and pink tassels at embroidered edges; green tie at UR corner — Woman's Mouth Veil, 20th century
Amazigh (Berber)

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cream, magenta, black, orange and pink embroidery on natural cotton ground; red cotton binding around edge — Suzani, 1920-1930
Uzbekistan

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repeating pattern of floral sprays in orange, blue, brown, green and yellow; two small flowers at right; cream-colored ground — Embroidered panel, 19th century
Ottoman

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on natural cotton fabric of six panels sewn together; floral patterns embroidered red, purple, blue, black and ochre (small motifs at R panel); embroidery panel frames as if it was around a door — Door (kapi) suzani, 1920
Uzbekistan

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red embroidery with muslin and coarse weave cotton that is gathered to form cap; ear flaps heavily embroidered with rows of tiny chain stitch forming double diamonds in black and blue with yellow and white; edged in wide 1" trim; lined in red floral wool and yellow plaid cottons; inter lining of coarse weave, natural cotton; trim extends 7-8"after garment ends — Hat, 20th century
Central Asia

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mustard yellow cotton fabric, attached to support fabric of the same color; overall embroidery of red and green floral roundels; chased red buds with green foliage at long sides; border at edges with floral clusters and decorative red and green organic designs — Woman's wedding shawl, 19th-20th century
Pakistan

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appliqué overall in various brightly -colored solid color and printed fabrics; flower and leaf bands around edges; central Tree of Life motif on dark blue with three pairs of birds-pink, white and yellow; lappet panels at top and bottom — Wall hanging, early 20th century
India

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small rectangular flap with radiating diamond and scroll appliqué in blue, tan, green and red with tan, purple and pink stitching on blue; top section gathered at attachment to flap; larger dark blue panel is decorated with two blue embroidered cross stitch side bands and maroon cross stitch end band; two corner squares of star or flower embroidery on maroon; central organic appliqués with embroidery--pink and maroon predominately; ties cut off — Baby carrier, c. 1970s-1980s
China

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black edging and backing; central panel with horizontal embroidered bands of floral motifs, birds and curlicues; predominately blue striped trim; predominately green and pink stitching — Baby carrier, c. 1970s-1980s
China

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panel with dark blue borders; central area embroidered with gold and pale green threads in square flower-like motifs surrounded by linear geometric patterns; border bands with gold dots on blue, scroll band, scroll and "H"-patterned band and striped bands — Sleeve fragment, c. 1980s
Miao

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Pair of Yao (Mien) Woman's Pants, 20th century

Thailand

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Shirt, 19th century

India

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Top (Agbada), 20th century

Hausa

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Panel, 20th century

India

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Shawl, 19th century

India

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Top (Agbada), Pants, and Hat, 20th century

Yoruba

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Blouse, 1900-1912

Romania

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Napkin (?), one of a pair, 20th century

After Purcell & Elmslie

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