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Both sides inscribed with very small text in black and red; short sides are selvedge edges

Cheat's Handkerchief, c. 1860

China

G217

Needlepoint representing the god of Longevity and Eight Immortals. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Needlepoint representing the god of Longevity and Eight Immortals, 1735-1796

China

G217

Throne seat cover of blue k'ossu with the same floral and emblem design as 42.8.238, except for double peach here seen in panel. Central panel oblong instead of shaped; border wider and no boxed border. Painted details. Lining of yellow satin with cloud pattern. Inscription on back.

Throne Seat Cover, c. 1800

China

G210

One of a pair of Imperial prayer banners in imperial yellow k'ossu made up of one wide and two narrow strips attached to a gilded bronze plaque with two dragon heads. The central strip, terminating in slit shaped ends finished with wedge-shaped plaques of gilded bronze, is formed of blue-black k'ossu with an inscription in gold characters mounted in yellow k'ossu, which has a design of the Eternal Sea, slender, five-clawed dragons, bats, and clouds in shades of blue, green, violet, crimson, and pink. The side strips suspended from shaped gilt bronze plaques incised with scrollscarry the same dragon and cloud design and terminate in three narrow strips of blue k'ossu with meander fret in gold. The strips are attached to the yellow band by three gilt bronze fungus heads, which are repeated on ends of blue strips. Lining of egg-shell silk of medallion design. These banners are said to have flanked the Emperor's private alter in the Temple of the Forbidden City. Of superb quality and condition. See Harris label for translation of inscriptions.

Altar Banner, Yongzhong period (1723-1735)

China

G218

One of a pair of Imperial prayer banners in imperial yellow k'ossu made up of one wide and two narrow strips attached to a gilded bronze plaque with two dragon heads. The central strip, terminating in slit shaped ends finished with wedge-shaped plaques of gilded bronze, is formed of blue-black k'ossu with an inscription in gold characters mounted in yellow k'ossu, which has a design of the Eternal Sea, slender, five-clawed dragons, bats, and clouds in shades of blue, green, violet, crimson, and pink. The side strips suspended from shaped gilt bronze plaques incised with scrollscarry the same dragon and cloud design and terminate in three narrow strips of blue k'ossu with meander fret in gold. The strips are attached to the yellow band by three gilt bronze fungus heads, which are repeated on ends of blue strips. Lining of egg-shell silk of medallion design. These banners are said to have flanked the Emperor's private alter in the Temple of the Forbidden City. Of superb quality and condition. See Harris label for translation of inscriptions.

Imperial Altar Banner, Yongzhong period (1723-1735)

China

G218

sheer dark blue silk decorated with woven medallions over salmon-colored silk with woven dots and flowers; white collar

Man’s robe, 19th century

Unknown Korean

G206

dark blue wool with yellow, red and white stripes at one end; appliquéd silk ribbon in white, lavender, light blue and medium blue forming U-shaped section with strips of symmetrical stepped flower and leaf designs; 4 red silk hand silhouettes, trimmed in white beads; green silk trim

Friendship Blanket, c. 1900

Wazhazhe (Osage)

G261

gold silk brocade bag, lined in green

Presentation bag for tea caddy, late 16th century

Unknown Japanese

Not on View
Robe of Ivory Silk embroidered with lower border of crested waves above which are bold floral and butterfly medallions and floral sprays; various shades of blue, green, yellow and salmon; sleeves similar but with more brilliant coloring on black ground; Pekin.

Robe, 1736-1795

China

Not on View
embroidered silk, brocaded

Collar, 1821-1850

China

Not on View
blue and gold with black and gold bands on arms, dragons throughout; 3 buttons front upper right

Manchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe (jifu), late 19th century

China

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Two panels which unbutton into separate parts; pink silk with small overall stitched-down pleats; trimmed with tan and yellow floral ribbon, blue silk embroidered with flowers and moths and light blue silk; partially lined with green

Skirt, late 19th century

China

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Skirt of Chinese Tapestry, green background with a design of dragons, birds, flowers, waves etc. on the panels; trimming of black satin bands.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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Shitagi, an undergarment, about 1850. Silk with katigami designs in stencil technique, tie dyeing and embroidery, L.63 in., W.22 in., W. of sleeves 12-½ in.

Undergarment (shitagi), c. 1850

Unknown Japanese

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sari, black silk. Widfe woven border of palmettes at one end and narrow border on both sides

Sari, 19th century

India

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Square of finely striped black and white silk material with heavy striped borders at each end of red, green, gold and silver. Finished at both ends with a fringe of small tassels and with larger tassels at each corner.

Square of Material, 19th century

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Cover of yellow brocade with a silver sheen resulting from silver threads in the weft. Patterned with black fret design and peonies outlined in black. Finished with aborder of green satin brocade and lined with cotton material.

Panel, 19th century

China

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Dragon robe of K'ossu weave with blue and gold and silver thread. Made for a member of the Imperial Family.

Manchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe, 1821-1850

China

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Kimono, no dance, fox girl; heavy black silk with bright flower and figure designs. Lined with scarlet silk.

Noh costume, 19th century

Unknown Japanese

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Woman's short coat of black satin embroidered in Peking stitch and satin stitch with large sprays of peonies. Worked with silk thread in shades of blue. Lined with light blue silk.

Woman's Jacket, 19th century

China

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Coat of mouse-colored satin brocaded with large round medallions, floral sprays, and at the bottom with wave pattern. Slit openings at side and back, Lined with light blue silk.

Medallion Robe, 19th century

China

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Imperial Twelve Symbol robe of blue k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold, those in profile clutching the Heavenly Jewel. In the ground, in addition to twelve ancient symbols, loose clouds, swastikas, bats, and long-life characters in shades of blue, green, red, pink, yellow, soft violet, olive-green, and gold thread. Conventional border of slightly wavy slanting stripes; tight clouds, and rolling waves among which appear emblems of Eight Precious Things and branches of Coral. Below border on sleeves a strip of black satin. Cuffs and collar band of dark blue k'ossu with dragons, clouds, bats, etc. Edging of gold and black brocade. Painted details. Robe slit at sides and lined with thin, diapered blue silk. This robe has been reduced in size by cutting the side seams down. Cf. dimensions of 42.8.10

Manchu Woman's Semiformal Twelve-Symbol Court Robe, Qianlong period, 1736-1795

China

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Priest's apron (theatrical?) of gold k'ossu with five-clawed dragons in green. (Note details woven with peacock feathers). From the peplum band of apron hang six rows of loose tabs, three in each row, and each of varying length. Each of the two upper strips is tipped with three brass pellet-bells. The six lower, longest strips are edged with long tassel. Strip, peplum, and apron proper banded with black velvet. The apron attached to a wide waist band of rust-red satin, and lined with pink silk. Seal inscription on lining notes that this apron belonged to the T'a Chih theatre.

Priest's Apron, Kangxiperiod, 1661-1722

China

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Court robe of dark blue k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold, those in profile grasping Heavenly jewel. In ground loose cloud forms, bats, peonies, Buddhist symbols in shades of red, rose, blue, green, yellow, peach, dull mauve, and olive green. Conventional border of slightly wavy slanting stripes. Tight clouds below rolling waves in which appear Taoist symbols, a 'cash' and jui sceptre, coral. Below sleeve border a strip of midnight blue silk damask, medallion design. Cuffs and collar band of dark blue k'ossu edged with black and gold brocade. Slit back and front. Lining of blue satin damask. Much painted detail; k'ossu loose, especially in dragon area. Some mending.

Dragon Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Short concubine(or riding?) coat of brick red satin brocaded in shades of green, yellow, blue, rose and gold. In front, on each side of opening, a rampant, five-clawed dragon grasping heavenly jewel. In back, one very large sitting dragon. Border of overlapping, semi-circular wave forms(Cf.42.8.4) with symbols of the eight precious things. Original sleeveless coat has been filled in with wide red brocaded sleeves finished with cuffs made of bands of the body brocade bordered by strips of modern(?) embroidered satin. Applied around bottom and up openings at side and front are borders of modern embroidery, blue on black, which terminate in trefoil ends under arms and at upper middle front opening. Neck finished with band of modern black and gold brocade. Lining of modern blue brocaded silk. Satin ground of brocade faded in some areas.

Short Coat, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Concubine robe similar to 42.8.1, but of blue satin brocaded in blue, green, yellow, shades of rose and gold. Border design of same pattern but with paler colors. Neckline and cuffs bordered with narrow band of black and gold brocade. Lining of thin blue silk. This robe not slit at bottom front and back.

Manchu Woman's Semiformal Court Robe, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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chinese imperial brocade palace hanging made up of five strips of blue satin brocaded with a continuous row of five-clawed dragons. Each strip is doubled, so that the same design appears on front and back. The wide, central strips carry the dragon full face grasping the precious jewel. Dragons on the narrower strips in profile. Scattered clouds at top and in fields; eternal sea motif at bottom.

Banner, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Square hanging of yellow k'ossu with design of peaches, branches and bats. A large central medallion within a panel set off from the border by a narrow band of couched gold threads. In each corner of the border a large bat, with smaller bats and loose clouds in intervening spaces. Chiefly pink, green, and yellow. Lining of pale yellow silk with medallion design. Inscription.

Panel, 18th century

China

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Panel of imperial yellow k'ossu. In the center, a large five-clawed dragon in gold surrounded by large red blossoms with intricately twining leafy branches. Narrow, shaped border of blue-black k'ossu with a running frieze of slender, cursive, profile dragons in gold. Colors include red, blue, green, pink, lavendar, pale violet, This panel in splendid condition with exceptionally fresh colors. Lining of pale lemon ywellow damask with cloud pattern. Seal incription.

Panel, Kangxi period, early 18th century

China

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Buddhist priest robe of K'ang Hsi blue k'ossu with gored end. Mnay five-clawed dragons in gold, those in the border having th symbolic universe design below. The small squares representing Buddha's mendicant days are alternately filled with gold dragons and large peony blossoms in shades of red, pink, and green. The shaped gores are filled with peony blossom and trailing tendrils. Upper border contains loose cloud forms and bats in end sections. Colors include green, red, pink, yellow, olive green , puce, mauve, yellow coral, peach and burnt orange. Compare treatment of clouds, wave border and dragons with the K'ang Hsi robes. K'ossu broken in many spots. The squared and gored areas set off with bindings of yellow satin. Lined with thin rose silk. Canopy flap with standard design, at center of upper top.

Buddhist Priest's Robe (kashaya), early 18th century

China

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Imperial robe of k'ossu with gold thread background and nine 5-clawed dragons in blue, those in profile grasping the Heavenly Jewel. In the ground, loosely-drawn clouds, bats, peonies, and Buddhist symbols in tones of blue, red, rose, green, brown, black, mauve. Border of slanting, straight stripes, in body colors plus yellow, toped with spray and curling waves in which appear symbols of the Eight Precious Things. Same border design on sleeve above a strip of blister ribbed dark blue satin ending in blue k'ossu cuffs with bats and universe design. Same collar band, but with coral sprays in waves. Note painted areas in waves and dragon details. Robe slit front and back and lined with thn blue silk. The k'ossu in this robe coarse, and with many breaks on shoulders.

Dragon robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Imperial robe of pale coral-colored k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold. In ground loosely-drawn clouds, Taoist emblems, long-life characters, bats clutching a garlanded double peach in their mouths, and peonies in shades of blue, green, red, pink, and grey. Four of the ancient synbols the sun, moon, constellation, and mountains appear on this robe. Border of straight slanting stripes seperated by a line of regularly disposed, tight cloud forms from over-lapping waves among which appear Buddhist emblems, branches of coral, and to each side of sacred mountain a sprouting dragon. Border repeated on sleeve above a strip of dark blue k'ossu edged in gold and bright light blue. Collar band of the same. Robe slit at sides and with thin tobacco-brown figured in silk lining. Note nine dragons embroidered for emphasis. It is suggested that this robe belonged to the empress who had a fondness for coral. (But a man's coat?) cf. 42.8.52

Dragon Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Outer coat of very dark blue silk twill with eight large medallions containing stylized orchid plants and narcissus. Intervening spaces of robe and upper sleeve filled with single floral sprays; peony, plum blossom, narcissus etc. Colors shades of blue, green, red, yellow, pink, and rose. Conventional border of slightly wavy slanting stripes; cloud forms; rolling waves among which are scattered Buddhist symbols. Deep, wide cuffs of the k'ossu decorated with the medallions and floral sprays of body in smaller size and edged with the border design of the coat. Coat slit at back, opened all the way up front, and collarless. Lining of thin blue silk.

Medallion Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Buddhist priest robe of many squares of brocade ingold and colors green, mulberry, blue, orange, yellow, red, deep blue, and mauve. The outer border and intervening wide bands are of the red brocade which thus predominates. One end of the robe is gored. Lining of red silk.

Buddhist Robe, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Skirt, pleated, of ivory silk brocaded with swastika and gourd design, Front and back panels decorated at bottom with an applique design, embroidered in loop(?) stitch showing figures of women in a flowery landscape. Shades of pink, yellow, green and blue. Main panels, and lower area of pleats, have an elaborate applied border consisting of a wide strip of blue satin and two narrow inner strips of braid, one yellow and one brocaded blue silk. Outer edges of panel, and edges of pleats have a narrow strip of dark blue satin edging the border proper. The main blue satin border embroidered at the bottom with various emblems in colores and couched threads. Lining of thin blue silk.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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Skirt of red velvet with gored side sections bound in black satin and embroidered in bottom area with peonies and butterflies in blue. Bottom of main panels embroidered with design of flowers and sacred vessels in shades of blue, green, pink and yellow in satin and knot stitch Main panels and bottom bordered with a stip of dark blue satin embroidered with running floral design in couched gold threads and shades of blue silk in satin stitch. Inner border of narrow light blue braid with floral design in red; outer binding of black satin. Lining of blue figured silk. Inscription on belt band and lining.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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skull cap, folding into six sections, worked in white silk over cords into all-over design, further ornamented with 4 and 5-lobed stars in green and white and red and white; edging of purple, pink and green braid, in cross stitch; partly lined with red and black calico

Skull Cap, 19th-20th century

Armenia or Syria

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Buddhist priest robe, kesi, Kangxi blue. An exceptionally fine example of kesi weaving with five-clawed dragons in gold and individual flower motifs in shades of red and pink. Patched character of robe achieved with narrow bindings of yellow satin.

Buddhist Priest Robe, 1662-1722

China

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Panel of pale yellow k'ossu. In the center a gong suspended from a bat's mouth, with two fish below representing marital felicity and abundance. Lotus blossoms, trailing leaves, and four bats in the corners make up remaining design in the central panel. In the border, set off from the main field by a band of applied gold braid, is a running design of dos a dos dragons, some gold, some blue, separated by large lotus blossoms. Colors include red, green, blue, pink, tan, and coral. Border of black and gold brocade with precious things ymbols. Lining of deep gold-colored satin damask of cloud desin. Cf. border dragons with 42.8.164 and 42.8.166.

Panel, c. 1800

China

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Imperial robe of blue k'ossu with gold swastika-fret diaper ground. Nine 5-clawed dragons in gold, those in profile clutching the Heavenly Jewel. On the ground are scattered loose clouds and bats in shades of blue, green, red, pink, soft violet, olive green and yellow. Conventional border of slightly wavy stripes in gold and black threads; tight clouds; rolling waves in gold and black threads with symbols of the Eight Precious Things and branches of coral. Below border on sleve, a strip of blister ribbed black silk. Cuffs of greyed-blue K'ossu with bats, clouds, dragons etc. Note stronger violet color in cuffs which are obviously a later addition. Collar band is of black K'ossu with body designs and is edged with blue and gold brocade. Coat slit front and back and lined with thin blue silk. K'ossu badly broken on right shoulder.

Dragon Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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panel of imperial yellow k'ossu with five five-clawed dragons in gold; one seated in a central medallion formed of loose clouds, and four disposed in the corners of the field, which contains clouds and bats. The entire panel is bordered with the Eternal Sea motif with swatiskas and emblems of the Precious Things. Colors include shades of blue,green, pink, rust, olive-green and mauve. Outer border of black k'ossu with a running design of dragons, lotus blossoms and leaves in shades of blue, green, pink, brown, mauve, olive-green and fischia. K'ossu ripped and worn in places. lining of gold-colored raw silk

Throne Seat Cushion Cover, 1662-1722

China

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High Taoist priest robe of black satin solidly embroidered in the couched twist stitch in gold, and in loop stitch in colors. Both taoist and Buddhist symbols are used in the design.

Taoist Robe, 1662-1722

China

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Court robe of loose gold k'ossu with diaper ground of blue quatrefoil enclosing narcissus(?) flower and grass green swastikas. Cf. 42.8.40 . Nine 5-clawed dragons in blue. In the ground loose clouds, bats, and Buddhist symbols in shades of blue, green, red, peach, coral, yellow, and soft violet. Conventional border of straight slanting stripes in main body colors alternating with gold threads; tight clouds; rolling waves and spray with Taoist emblems, jui, and branches of violet coral sprays. Below border on sleeve a strip of blue blister-ribbed silk. Cuffs and collar band of grey-black k'ossu with clouds, bats, etc. Edging of gold and brown brocade. Painted details. Robe slit front and back and lined with thin yellow silk. Inscription in front.

Dragon Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Outer coat of deep blue silk of dragon medallion pattern embroidered with large phoenix and peony medallions, floral sprays and butterflies in shades of bule, yellow, green, peach, pink and rust. Shaped collar-band, bottom and side border of white satin embroidered in a landscape design with figures of men and women. Wide sleeves with cuffs of brocaded yellow silk embroidered with large peony and lotus blossoms and butterflies in shades of red, pink and blue. Secondary border of grey satin embroidered with flowers and long-life characters in shades of blue. This coat opens all the way up front, and is probably a woman's coat. Lining of thin blue patterned silk. Cheifly satin and knot stitch.

Robe, 19th-20th century

China

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Court robe of dark blue k'ossu with diaper back ground of narcissus blossoms and swastikas, enclosed in quatrefoil; scepter heads?, in gold, nine five-clawed dragons, those in profile grasping Heavenly jewel, in gold. Buddhist emblems, thight clouds, and bats with peach in shades of red, rose, blue, green, olive green, yellow, and soft violet. Conventional border with straight slanting stripes in body colors. Tight cloud forms below rolling waves with swastikas, coral, etc. Below border on sleeve strip of bright dark blue silk damask with large medallions. Cuffs and collar band of dark blue k'ossu in body designs. Edging of light blue and gold fret pattern brocade. Slit front, back, and one side. Lining of thin blue silk. K'ossu loosely woven.

Court Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Collar, shaped, of embroidered black satin. The design, in shades of pale blue, green, and yellow includes cranes, cocks, spotted deer, grasshoppers, Hundred Antiques, and other symbols. Border of narrow white braid, banding of reseda green satin and binding of black satin. Lining of blue silk with figured ground.

Collar, 19th century

China

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of yellow k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold. In addition to 12 ancient symbols (note round drawing of water weed and fire), ground is filled with loose clouds, long life characters, bats with the double peach and swastika and Taoist emblems in shades of blue, green, red, pink, and strong purple. Note blued tone of reds. Conventional border of almost straight slanting stripes; tight clouds; rolling waves in which appear Buddhist symbols. Olive green and yellow also used in border. Below border on sleeves a band of plain dark blue silk. Collar band and wide, deep cuffs of black k'ossu with dragons, clouds, bats, etc. Edging of light blue and gold fretwork brocade. Eyes of dragons embroidered. Robe slit at sides and lined with thin yellow silk with character medallions. Circular seal in front.

Manchu Empress's Semiformal Twelve-symbol Court Robe (chi-fu), 1821-1850

China

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One of a set of four wall hangings of embroidered deep blue satin. Each has a design of two of the Eight Immortals. Floral sprays and boughs in the ground. Satin and knot stitch in shades of green, blue, peach, pink, red, yellow, and tan. Border of gold and salmon-colored brocade with design of symbols and dragon medallions. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Panel, one of a set of four, 20th century

China

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Throne seat brocaded with five five-clawed dragons in gold against a solid abckground of tight clouds in shades of blue, green, yellow, brown, peach, pink and rust color. Border of blue satin brocaded with flowers in gold and shades of blue, green and yellow. Border bound on both sides with black satin. Brocade badly worn, and mended in spots. lininf of gold colored satin. Damask of cloud design.

Chair Cover, 1723-1735

China

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Taoist priest robe of embroidered rust-rose satin. Back and shoulders embroidered with all-over tenders embroidered with all-over tendril ground in couched gold threads. On back conventional Taoist motives large butterfly medallions and Buddhist symbols in couched gold threads and couched twist in colors. On the front are dragon medallions and two large dragons in couched twist stitch. Borders of black satin with Buddhist symbols, dragons, and lotus in couched twist stitch in colors and gold. Faded. Lining of rose-red silk of dragon medallion design.

Daoist priest’s robe (jiangyi), Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Collar, made of wavy strips of shaped embroidered satin a looped together, lattice-like, for a dance costume. Lond, colored, shaped tabs extend from deep yoke portion to dangle over skirt.

Woman's Collar, 19th century

China

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Panel of gold k'ossu with spreading branches of lotus and peonies in the rain field. Above, in a wide band set off from the field by a border of blue k'ossu with Greek Key meander in gold, is a row of flower and fruit sprays. The design is done in shades of red, pink, green and white. Around the edge a the border of the Greek key meander in gold on blue. The panel is in two sections seamed up the middle. Lining of bright pink figured silk. Coarse quality. Note A.P. says this may be late XVIII century.

Panel, 19th century

China

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Woman's robe of twilled, cerise silk embroidered with butterflies in shades of magenta, poison green, shades of purple and strong blue. Shaped collar band, skirt borders, and sleeve bands of black satin ebmbroidered with butterflies in colors. Wide cuffs, of white silk also embroidered with butterflies. Lining of thin blue silk.

Robe, 19th century

China

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One of a set of four wall hangings of embroidered seep blue satin. Each has a design of two of the Eight Immortals. Floral sprays and boughs in the ground. Satin and knot stitch in shades of green, blue, peach, pink, red, yellow and tan. Border of gold and salmon-color brocade with design of symbols and dragon medallions. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Panel, one of a set of four, 20th century

China

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Throne back cover of the k'ang hsi type blue k'ossu with a central, shaped panel edged with a band of gold threads, in which are scattered peonies, lotus, chrysanthemums, bats and swastikas in shades of green, pink, pale blue, red, yellow and apricot. Border of the same design and boxed border of blossoms, bats and double peach in colors of the field proper. Painted details. cf. 42.8.236. lining of gold satin in cloud design. This is a companion to 42.8.239.

Throne Back Cover, c. 1800

China

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Throne back cover of yellow k'ossu with a central, shaped panel, edged with a band of gold threads in which are scattered peonies, lotus, chrysanthemums, bats, and swastikas in shades of blue, green, red, pink, apricot, and gold threads. Border of the same design. The boxed border has running design of floral sprays and bats. Lining of yellow raw silk with cloud patter. Seal & inscription on back. Cf. 42.8.238 for similar design

Throne Back Cushion Cover, late 18th century

China

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Woman's Short Jacket of pale yellow k'ossu with a design of five-clawed dragon medallions, clouds, bats, narcissus, adn Buddhist symbols in shades of blue, light green, and golden yellow. Along bottom is the Eternal Sea motif, with good luck symbols in the waves. Collar-band of blue k'ossu with five clawed dragons in gild. Cuffs of white k'ossu with a design of figures in a landscape; inner border of black k'ossu with narcissus blossoms -- cuffs later (?). Coat opens down front, and is lined with deep cream silk of medallion design.

Woman's Short Jacket, Qianlong period, 1736-1795

China

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Throne back cover of imperial yellow k'ossu with a central, spaced panel set off from a border by a narrow band embroidered with running flower and leaf pattern and edged with narrow lines couched in blue silk threads. Design of central panel and border is scattered peonies, loyus, chrysanthemums, bats and swastikas and double peach in in shades of green, pale blue, pink, red, peach. The panel has adiaper ground of swastikas and shaped quatrefoil medallions containing a narcissus blossom. Cf. diaper in Ch'ien Lung and Chia Ch'ing imperial robes. Boxed border has a running floral and bat design. cf. 42.8.236, 238. Painted details. Lining of yellow raw silk with cloud patterns. Two inscriptions, one a seal, on back.

Throne Back Cover, 18th century

China

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Imperial concubine robe of rich green brocade. The sleeves have been altered to fit the wearer. Shades of blue, green, red, rose and yellow on green satin ground. Dragons in gold. Note use of imperial five-clawed dragon.

Dragon Robe, 1662-1722

China

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Skirt of emerald green silk of bamboo pattern with stitched, accordion pleated side sections. Main panels and bottom trimmed with elaborate border of bands of embroidered black, yellow, lavendar and white satin with butterflies, bats and floral sparys in colors. In bottom corners of panels, applique medallions with design of cut-out bars and good luck character in black on lavendar ground. Panels lined with magenta silk.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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Triple collar, made of many overlapping strips of shaped, embroidered red, white and yellow satin attached to a small standing collar, for a dance costume. The large bottom collar has a tassled fringe border. Small discs of tin are sewn on collars at regular intervals. Lining of cerise silk of floral design.

Triple Collar, 19th century

China

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Buddhist Priest's robe with gored end made up of pieces of colored satin blue, pink, white, peach, green, tan, and embroidered in satin stitch and couched gold threads with dragons, clouds, flowers, Fu dogs, Eternal Sea, etc. in colored silks. Border of dark blue satin embroidered with five-clawed gold dragons, bats, clouds, and Eternal Sea. Satin torn in places. Lining of thin pink silk and rose floral satin.

Buddhist Priest's Robe, Qianlong period, 1736-1795

China

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Skirt of patterned green gauze with stitched accordian-pleated side sections. Main panels decorated with an elaborate shaped triple border the outer border of white silk embroidered with small sprays of flowers in loop stitch in shades of blue, green, violet, pink, orange and red; middle border of gold silk braid; inner border magenta silk braid with stylized flowers. the bottom of the skirt has four borders three corresponding to those of the panels and one of purple silk braid with stylized flowers. No lining.

WOMAN'S SKIRT, 19th century

China

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Short concubine coat of ivory satin brocaded in rose, yellow, green, shades of blue and gold. In front, on each side of opening, two rampant five-clawed, gold dragons grasping heavenly jewel. In back, one very large sitting dragon of same general type as in 48.2.1,2,3. Background of loose cloud pattern. Border of rolling waves in shades of green, blue and ivory in overlapping half-moon shapes four on each side of mountain motif. In the waves appear symbols of the eight precious things. Note small embroidered areas(restorations?) in cloud back of right armhole and dragon motif on back. Coat opens up front to round neck with narrow band of modern black and gold brocade. Same brocade borders armholes, which may have been filled in with modern sleeves of brown monotone brocade finished with blue satin cuffs, embroidered in gold. Lining of lime green figured silk. Cf.42.8.5

Dragon Jacket, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Imperial coat of blue k'ossu with nine five-clawed dragons in gold, and the ground scattered with loosely drawn clouds and bats in shades of blue, red, green and yellow. Profile dragons grasp the Heavenly Jewel. Border of slanting, wavy stripes beneath a band of curling, tossing waves above cloud forms. Border repeated in miniature at elbows, where sleeves continue with band of dark blue ridged silk ending in cuffs of dark blue k'ossu with body motifs. Collar and front band of same blue k'ossu. Coast slit front and back and lined with thin blue silk. K'ossu torn at shoulders, elbows, and in face of big front dragon.

Dragon robe, Yongzheng period, 1723-1735

China

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Lama robe of embroidered yellow satin used in temple dances?, the theatre?. Front upper section and wide girdle area embroidered with loosely drawn clouds and chilin (?) in shades of blue, green, red, mauve, mulberry, and pink. bordering the girdle area, two bands of black velvet with cursive, porfile dragons in couched gold threads. Skirt composed of four shaped panels bordered, on lower part, with scrolls of pale blue and gold brocade. In lower section of each an embroidered Foo dog in shades of puce and reddish brown. Upper section of panel embroidered in loop (knot?) stitch with all-over pattern of hanging leaf froms representing chain armor in pale pink, blue, and green. At top and bottom tow monster masks in satin and couched stitch. This upper area given the shape of a rounded panel by a band of black velvet studded with alternate metal bosses and larger, brass discs with a dragon in relief. The band is bordered in turn with 'tiger claws' of vari-colored brocade of type in robe 42.8.129. This panel motif repeated onloose epaulets over shoulders, and in upper back section of robe. High, shaped collar of embroidered yellow satin. LIning of pink sati damask. See 'The Chinese Lama Temple, Potola, Jehol, descriptive of Bendix Temple at Century of Progress, Chicago,' p.62. Inscription in front.

Theatrical Military Robe, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of coral colored k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold. In the ground, in addition to the twelve symbols(note that constellation and [double happiness(?)] have been almost cut away with altering) - loose clouds, long life characters, bats with the double peach, and taoist symbols in shades of blue, green, red, pink, yellow and olive green. Conventional border of straight-edged slanting stripes; tight, regularly grouped clouds (cf. 42.8.21 for very similar arrangement) shallow area of rolling waves and spray in which appear Buddhist emblems. Below border on sleeve a strip of coral colored twilled silk, lengthened by a narrow band of same. Cuffs and collar band of dark blue k'ossu in body design. Edging of blue and gold brocade. Note embroidered dragon's eyes and painted details in border. Robe slit front and back and lined with pale ecru damask with design of long-life character medallions.

Manchu Prince's Semiformal Twelve-Symbol Court Robe, 1796-1820

China

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Tibetan Wedding (?) skirt made of strips of yellow, fuschia, lavendar, pink, green , orange, purple, iron red and rose brocaded satin, some with the designs in color. Hanging from the skirt, knife-pleated in side sections, are wavy embroidered strips, finished with bells, tassels, and pearls. Main panels have an elaborate design of applied embroidered borders, braids, applique silk flowers and rosettes on the main and bottom borders. Lining of thinblue silk; an extremely elaborate skirt of quality not often found. Embroidery done in many stitches satin needlepoint, loop, knoot, stem, etc.

Tibetan Wedding Skirt, 19th century

China

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Priest robe of embroidered and brocaded puce satin. The shape of the robe is Taoist and the satin is brocaded in an all-over design in spaced, vertical lines, with running Sanskrit characters (prayers) in gold thread. Over this ground on back are enbroidered in laid couched work figures of the 18 Lohans. Colors of embroidery (later work ?) include blues, yellow, rose, peach, green, black, ivory and tan. On left shoulder blade a pagoda; on right, a dragon. Around bottom, sides and front a border of soft blue satin brocaded with the body characters in silver threads. This border banded, on outer edge, with a narrow strip of the puce brocade and set off from main body of robe with a narrow binding of pale beige satin with reveals brocaded areas. Two shaded strips of puce brocade attached to front for fastening. Lining of alternating strips of yellow and orange damask. Facing of plain puce satin around collar and down front; of brown silk damask around bottom and sides. A.P. thinks this may be one of 1738 Kuo Ch'in Wang tomb lot( Yun Li, 17th son of K'ang Hsi, died 1738)

Taoist Priest's Robe, late 19th century

China

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Skirt of blue-black silk with 5-clawed dragon border and medallions brocaded in chartreuse yellow. Around the bottom a band of gold and black brocade of interlocking Y pattern. The skirt is pleated with stitched box pleats below the waist band. Cf. 42.8.205,212 for similar tailoring and design.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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Runner made up of two narrow strips of faded, reddish-brown k'ossu (from panels of a robe?). Each end of the strip contains a five-clawed dragon in gold grasping the heavenly jewel. Loosely drawn clouds, bats, Taoist and other symbols. Beneath, the Eternal Sea motif with swastikas and Precious Thing symbols. Colors include blue, green, red, pink, yellow, violet and olive green. Border of black sateen bound with light blue cotton. Lining of thin blue silk. These pieces appear to have been the lower front sections of a court robe.

Chair Cover, 19th century

China

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One of a set of four wall handings of embroidered deep blue satin. Each has a design of two of the Eight Immortals. Floral sprays and boughs in the ground. Satin and knot stitch in shades of green, blue, peach, pink, red, yellow and tan. Border of gold and salmon-colored brocade with design of symbols and dragon medallions. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Panel, one of a set of four, 20th century

China

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Panel, seamed up the center of green satin brocade. Swastika fret diaper in yellow with bats in red. Border of Greek key meander in red and yellow. Lining in orange silk with cloud design.

Panel, c. 1800

China

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Imperial robe of yellow k'ossu with eight large medallions, each containing a 5-clawed dragon in blue grasping the Heavenly Jewel. Beneath the dragon waves and the sacred mountain, and surrounding trim tight clouds, bats, and swastikas. In the spaces between the medallions embroidered Buddhist and Taoist symbols, bats, and swastikas. Colors in medallions are shades of blue, red, olive green, soft violet, and coral. Colors of the embroidered motifs, worked in satin, laid and outline stitch, are shades of green, red, pink, blue, and brown, mauve and grey. Wide sleeves with band of dark blue k'ossu with Universe design edged with a strip of plain gold k'ossu. Collar of same. Coat slit at sides, and bound around front, bottom, and openings with black satin. Lining of yellow satin damask of medallion design. Inscription in front and at back of neck. Perhaps a woman's coat. K'ossu very firm.

Medallion Robe, Jiaqing period, 1796-1820

China

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Imperial theratrical robe for a warrior; crimson velvet with panels of imported European brocade.

Theatrical Robe, 1662-1722

China

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Panel of painted, gold thread gauze. The two sections seamed unevenly in the middle apparently from the panels of the robe. Design of four-clawed dragons, bats, clouds and heavenly jewel with Eternal Sea at bottom. Shades of blue, green, rose, yellow, mulberry, violet, orange, and light magenta. Note treatment of the waves, and cf. with kang hsi robes. Border of deep blue cotton bound with light blue brocaded silk. Lining of pale peach cotton.

Panel, 18th century

China

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Throne seat cover of imperial yellow k'ossu. In a round, central medallion, a five-clawed dragon in gold is seated above the Eternal Sea. Surrounding him are loose clouds, some of which form the border of upper section of medallion. In the field outside the medallion are large sprays of peonies with twining leaves. In the border, set off fron the main field by a nerrow gold band, are slender, cursive dragons in profile spearated by large floral sprays, The boxed border of the cover has a design of flowers and a wide meander. Colors include blue, green, pink, red, rust, and tan. Some painted detail. Lining of thin yellow silk. Soiled and torn.

Throne Seat Cover, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Taoist priest robe of embroidered rust rose satin. On back and shoulders an all-over, loose tendril ground in couched gold threads. On the back conventional Taoist motif, five clawed dragons, bats, cranes, clouds, pagodas in couched gold threads and couched twist in colors. On the front large cranes, bats and clouds. Borders of black satin; collar and front with dragons, bats and clouds; side borders with running lotus and leaf design; bottom border with figures of the Eight Immortals and the Eight Trigrams in couched gold threads, couched twist in colors, satin stitch for faces. Lining of lelmon-yellow silk with medallion pattern.

Taoist Robe, Tao Kuang period, 1821-1850

China

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Coat of gold K'ossu with design of 100 boys at play in landscape ground. Colors pink, blue, green, red, tan, and grey. Wide sleeves. Lining of tan satin damask of medallion pattern.

Robe, 20th century

China

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Skirt of lavendar brocaded silk with accordion-pleated side sections which are embroidered, in lower section with rows of bats in sharp blue and green. Bottom of front and back panels embroidered with a seated, five-clawed dragon in gold; phoenix, bats, clouds and Eternal Sea in shades of sharp blue, green, purple and yellow. Main panels and bottom have wide border of bright blue satin emboridered in satin stich with phoenix medallions, long life symbols, bats and flowers in sharp blues, purple, green and red, Bottom corners of panels have bat design in cutwork. Inner border of green satin braid with floral design in blue. Panels lined with cerise silk.

skirt, 19th century

China

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Temple hanging, framed, of satin applique on satin. The design represents Buddha seated on lotus in a field of floral sprays and clouds. The colors, tan, brown, and blue have taken on a prevailing dark rather rusty tone. The Buddha is shown in the gesture of calling the earth to witness.

Temple Hanging, 1368-1644

China

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Hanging of light olive-green satin brocade. Five five-clawed dragons in gold one large seated one at upper center; the others prowling at his sides and beneath him. In the field are loosely drawn, straggling clouds and the Heavenly Jewel. Below the eternal sea with deeply rolling waves dotted with loose clouds, and the sacred mountain. Border of yellow silk brocaded in gold with various symbols hard to identify because the gold threads are worn away. Along lower border two rounded-arch patches of the satin have been set in. Lining of thin yellow silk.

Hanging, Kangxi period, 1662-1722

China

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Emperors sacrificial robe of red. used inceremonies to the sun. The twelve symbols reserved for the emperor's use appear on this robe. Blue green gold rose; purple inthe bats.

Twelve Symbol Robe, 1821-1850

China

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chartreuse, pleated, seperate panel front and back, embroidered in shades of blue and white. Purple braid trim on panels and hemline.

Skirt, 19th century

China

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Robe of medium green k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold, those in profile grasping the Heavenly Jewel. In the ground are loose clouds, longevity characters, bats and Buddhist emblems in shades of blue, pink, red, yellow, olive green and in gold. Conventional border with straight slanting stribpes; tight clouds; rolling waves in which appear Buddhist symbols, and symbols of the Eight Precious Things. Below border on sleeve a wide deep cuff of black k'ossu with body designs. Collar band of same; both edged with brown and gold brocade. Robe slit at sides and lined with thin yellow silk. Probably a woman's robe.

Dragon Robe, 1851-1874

China

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Rug, palmette design, fringed, 800-900 knots per square inch. Rare silk warp.

Rug, c. 1875-1900

Iran

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black silk, floral embroidery in shade of rose, blue and green, blue lining

Mandarin Robe, 19th century

China

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Square, shaped Collar of embroidered white brocaded silk. The design includes lotus and peony flowers and leaves, Buddhist, Daoist and other symbols, and landscape scenes, all done in the Peking Knot stitch in shades of blue, red, green, pink, yellow, brown, grey and tan. Border of black satin piped with blue. Lining of rose silk with figured ground. Soiled, and lining faded.

Square shaped Collar, 19th century

China

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Robe of red twilled silk embroidered with eight large medallions containing cranes, butterflies, chrysanthemum and peony sprays in shades of pale blue, green, rose, lavendar, and magenta. Conventional border of straight, slanting stripes; tight clouds; rolling waves with Buddhist symbols, swastikas, branches of coral and emblems of the Eight Precious Things. Colors very crude and strong. Wide deep cuffed sleeves with a band of black silk embroidered with the medallion motifs and finished at lower edge with band of gold and black brocade. Directly below a band of the red silk separates this from the cuff, also of black silk and embroideded with the medallion motif. Collar band of the same, both edged with black and gold brocade. Robe is slit at sides, unlined but faced back with bands of the embroiedred silk. A woman's coat?

Medallion Robe, 19th century

China

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Actor's(?) robe of red and blue embroidered satin with many hanging tabs, double collar, and long wide sleeves with wavy colored satin bands around lower arm section. Silvered bosses stud robe. Embroidery chiefly satin and couched stitch. Fringed front and back panels. Lining of thin diapered silk in strong pink.

Bride's Robe, 19th century

China

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One of four wall hangings of embroidered deep blue satin. Each has a design of two of the Eight Immortals. Floral sprays and boughs in the ground. Satin and knot stitch in shades of green, blue, peach, pink, red, yellow, and tan. Border of gold and salmon-color brocade with design of symbols and dragon medallions. Former Classification: Textiles - Tapestry

Panel, one of a set of four, early 20th century

China

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Imperial robe of pale coral-colored k'ossu with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold. Scattered in ground are loose clouds, bats and the double happiness sign in shades of blue, green, red, pink, violet and strong purple. Conventional border with staight slanting stripes; very tight band of small clouds; rolling waves in which appear Buddhist symbols. Olive green in border. Below border on sleeves a strip of fabric striped horozontally. Cuffs and collar band of dark blue k'ossu with the body motifs. Edging of gold and blue fretwork meander, and band of same directly below border of sleves. At arm holes, a wide band of gold and blue brocade of different pattern. Robe slit at sides, lined with yellow damask and faced on all openings with a band of the blue and gold brocade used for the cuff edging. The double happiness character indicates this robe was worn for a wedding. Dragon's eyes embroidered. Some painting.

Manchu Woman's Formal Court Robe, Daoguang period, 1821-1850

China

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of yellow twilled silk embroidered, save for the nine 5-clawed dragons (couched gold thread) and certain of the 12 symbols, entriely in shades of blue with touches of white. The ground of the sky area is covered with a swastika fret diaper on which appear sprawling, white-eyed clouds, the 12-symbols, bats carrying swastikas, jui scepters, etc, and good luck characters. Border of unusually narrow slanting wavy stripes topped by a narrow strip of clouds tightly massed, and a double row of billows in which appear the Buddhist symbols and Precious Things. Note the unusual treatment of the wine cups. Robe slit at sides and lined with yellow damask with double jui medallions. Band and cuffs of blue-black satin embroidered in blue and gold.

Dragon Robe, 1851-1861

China

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Taoist priest robe with couched gold ground embroidered with silk and silk floss in satin stitch and couching. On the back the customary pagoda medallion flanked by the Sun and Moon symbols. In the field, tight, white-eyed clouds, two large dragon medallions, bats carrying various good luck emblems, white cranes, double peaches and Taoist symbols. At the bottom of the field the Heavenly Sea. The front of the robe is adorned at the shoulders with large medallions carrying frontal dragons. Beneathe each medallion is a pagoda resting on a heap of clouds. In the field, tight clouds, bats, cranes and Buddhist symbols. The borders are embroidered in couched silk twist with Buddhist symbols, dragons, carp, Precious Things, clouds and other symbols. The border sections are of fine workmanship and are undoubtedly older that the major portion of the robe itself.

Taoist Robe, Tao Kuang period, 1821-1850

China

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of yellow satin embroidered with colored silks in satin stitch and with couched gold threads. Nine 5-clawed dragons in a field of tight white-eyed clouds. Crimson bats and good-luck characters, together with the traditional 12 symbols, appear in the field. Deep border of slanting stripes topped by tightly massed groups of clouds and surging waves. In the waves appear heaps of jewels, Precious Things, and branches of coral. The colors are brilliant but not strident. The robe has been re-tailored with narrow, standing collar and plain dark blue satin sleeves. The border band is so applied that most of the 'constellation' is hidden. Lining of medium blue satin, modern buttons. Robe slit at front, back, and sides.

Twelve Symbol Robe, Qianlong period, 1736-1795

China

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Sleeveless robe of dark blue k'ossu with design of butterflies in shades of blue, yellow, pink, and green. Border of greyed blue k'ossu with butterflies and blossoms set off from body by a strip of blue and gold brocade. Painted details. Lining of thin pink silk. A companion to 42.8.80.

Sleeveless Robe, 19th century

China

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square of silk brocage, pear design

Panel, 18th century

India

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of orange gauze embroidered in petit point and satin stitch. Nine 5-clawed dragons in couched gold thread. In a field of sprawling white eyed clouds,the traditional 12 symbols, good luck characters, and bats carrying swastikas and the double peach. Border of slanting stripes topped by a solid band of tight clouds and billows in which appear Buddhist symbols and Precious Things. Black gauze band embroidered in petit point with motifs of the body. Wide cuffs of the same and sleeves of paler orange gauze striped horizontally in blue. Robe slit at sides and lined with medium blue damask of peony design.

Dragon Robe, 1851-1861

China

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Child's coat of imperial yellow silk embroidered in shades of blue, red, and pink. Eight 5-clawed dragons, bats, and sprawling, tight-headed clouds. Conventional border of slightly wavy short lines; tight clouds; rolling waves in which appear branches of coral. Border entirely in blue and white. Sleeves below border area are plain. Plain upstanding collar, fastening in front. Lining of long-life medallion damask.

Manchu Child's Semiformal Robe, 19th century

China

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Imperial 12-symbol robe of pale yellow satin embroidered in satin stitch and couched gold threads. Traditional universe design with nine 5-clawed dragons in gold, a field of loose, fragmentary clouds in which appear the 12 symbols, Buddhist symbols, crimson bats carrying branches of coral, jui scepters, and other auspicious emblems and good luck characters. Deep 'hurricane wave' border in which stripes break through the waves, filled with Buddhist symbols, flowers and Precious Things. Border and cuffs of reddish purple satin embroidered in satin stitch and couching with motifs of the body. Yellow satin sleeves. Robe slit at front and sides and lined with coarse yellow silk. The violet and some red colors are aniline. This robe presents an interesting variation of the Heavenly Sea border and harks back to the Yung Cheng period in its treatment. Cf. 42.8.183 and 42.8.11

Dragon Robe, Tao Kuang period, 1821-1850

China

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