Cotton, silkexpand_more
Gift of Richard L. Simmons in memory of Roberta Grodberg Simmonsexpand_more 2004.169.100
In this huipil, the red from the silk yarn has bled onto the white cotton fabric. Although it was common knowledge that silk yarns were not color-fast, the weaver's decision to use the brightly-colored yarn was a deliberate artistic choice. The run-off from the dye did not "ruin" her garment; instead, it showcased the artist's ability to purchase expensive, imported silk. This prestige blouse would be worn to a cofradía ceremony, further solidifying her high status as a woman of honor and responsibility. The cofradía is a community-based religious group, responsible for ceremonies as well as the care of their local Catholic church.
A careful inspection of the delicate embroidery reveals a large double-headed eagle. Stylistically inspired by the heraldic eagle of the Hapsburg royal family of Spain, the motif also represents the continued prevalence of pre-Conquest cosmology and imagery. The eagle's ability to turn its head to look both forward and backward is a manifestation of the Mayan concept of duality.
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