Sleeveless robe of deep blue satin embroidered in satin stitch with large moth butterflies in shades of blue, pink and yellow. Border of floral medallions in blue, set off from body by a band of multicolored brocade with floral branches, phoenix, butterflies, etc. Some couched, laid and knot stitch. Lining of thin chartreuse yellow silk. Cf 42.8.67 for similar butterfly motif but in k'ossu.

Manchu Women’s Unofficial Informal Vest, 19th century

Unknown artist, expand_more

Silkexpand_more

The John R. Van Derlip Fundexpand_more  42.8.76

This vest is ornately decorated with stylized cicada insects, floating against a deep blue background. Cicadas have held a high status in Chinese culture for thousands of years. Their unique lifecycle—falling from tree branches, burrowing into the earth, and surviving on roots for about seventeen years before emerging and returning to the branches—lends itself to ideas of resurrection, harmony, and immortality. This vest was created as an unofficial, informal garment, worn not in a court setting but within domestic spaces.

Details
Title
Manchu Women’s Unofficial Informal Vest
Role
Artist
Dimension
L.53-7/8 in.
Accession Number
42.8.76
Curator Approved

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Sleeveless robe of deep blue satin embroidered in satin stitch with large moth butterflies in shades of blue, pink and yellow. Border of floral medallions in blue, set off from body by a band of multicolored brocade with floral branches, phoenix, butterflies, etc. Some couched, laid and knot stitch. Lining of thin chartreuse yellow silk. Cf 42.8.67 for similar butterfly motif but in k'ossu.