Hide, beads, sinew, cotton clothexpand_more
Bequest of Virginia Doneghy, by exchangeexpand_more 2023.47.1
Southern Cheyenne artist Imogene Big Medicine (1923 – 1980) created this stunningly beautiful fully beaded dress with matching leggings and moccasins. Hundreds of Italian glass beads are sinew-stitched to the tanned hide, and the dress is lined with calico. Using a lane stitch technique to bead – customary for Cheyenne and Lakota bead artists – Big Medicine draws upon Lakota stylistic and design elements, including a background filled with brilliant blue beads and further embellished with warm amber and green beaded designs. Perhaps the most striking elements in the outfits are the American flags that appear, a common motif used by bead artists since the mid to late 19th century. American flags were used in a variety of ways, most notably to imbue the wearer with the “power” the flag represented, and to provide a visual cue of “allegiance” to the outside world. A subversive strategy, these flags actually allowed individuals to covertly practice ceremonies and events during patriotic gatherings such as the 4th of July in plain sight.
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