navy blue coat, patterned with white stitching throughout (dash pattern through body and sleeves, chevron around shoulders and TC on verso); horizontal line across chest with triangles along top; open front with collar

Short dark blue-ground fisherman's festival coat (donza) made on Awaji Island, late 19th-early 20th century

expand_more
Not on Viewexpand_more

Though of unremarkable materials, this embroidered fisherman’s festival coat (donza) was precious, a high-status item undoubtedly worn with a great deal of pride. The skill of the embroiderer(s), who labored for months to cover the garment with small, even stitches, is self-evident. Unusual among extant textiles for its short length, the cotton garment is lined with wadded, quilted cotton and then embroidered with white cotton threads. This embroidery, called sashiko, literally “little stabs,” is a style of quilting in which cotton is sewn in a running stitch through layers of fabric. Originated as a way to reinforce parts of textiles, it grew to have a decorative function as well. Its painstaking beauty is on magnificent display here: the shoulders and upper back are stitched with a zigzag pattern, while the body and sleeves feature staggered, vertical stitches.

Details
Title
Short dark blue-ground fisherman's festival coat (donza) made on Awaji Island
Role
Maker
Accession Number
2019.20.108
Catalogue Raisonne
Murray et al. 2018, pl. 113
Curator Approved

This record has been reviewed by our curatorial staff but may be incomplete. These records are frequently revised and enhanced. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about this object, please email collectionsdata@artsmia.org.

Does something look wrong with this image? Let us know

Zoom in on the left to the detail you'd like to save. Click 'Save detail' and wait until the image updates. Right click the image to 'save image as' or copy link, or click the image to open in a new tab.

navy blue coat, patterned with white stitching throughout (dash pattern through body and sleeves, chevron around shoulders and TC on verso); horizontal line across chest with triangles along top; open front with collar