khaki colored coat with black collar; round fasteners with blue decorative thread tied in bows at top collar and at center opening; vertical band of cloth at PL breast

Traveling coat of kudzu fiber (kuzufu dōchūgi), 19th century

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Men and women wore traveling coats (dōchūgi) over their kimono to protect them from the elements. The light, breathable fabric was woven with fibers taken from the kudzu plant (kuzufu), a vine also known as arrowroot. Excavations in China revealed that the use of kudzu cloth reaches back to the Neolithic era (10,000–4,500 BCE). The inner fibers of the vine were boiled in lime and then bleached in water. In this example, white kudzu thread was used on the weft and soft gray-dyed cotton on the warp. The lining, trim, and cording are made of silk; the black collar of wool. The material and ornamentation on the bone clasps suggest that this garment would have been worn by a wealthy merchant, village headman, or nobleman.

Details
Title
Traveling coat of kudzu fiber (kuzufu dōchūgi)
Role
Maker
Accession Number
2019.20.94
Catalogue Raisonne
Murray et al. 2018, pl. 45
Curator Approved

This record has been reviewed by our curatorial staff but may be incomplete. These records are frequently revised and enhanced. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about this object, please email collectionsdata@artsmia.org.

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khaki colored coat with black collar; round fasteners with blue decorative thread tied in bows at top collar and at center opening; vertical band of cloth at PL breast