Cloth: cotton; shibori (tie-dyeing), indigo dyeexpand_more
The John R. Van Derlip Fund and the Mary Griggs Burke Endowment Fund established by the Mary Livingston Griggs and Mary Griggs Burke Foundation; purchase from the Thomas Murray Collectionexpand_more 2019.20.84
This spectacular garment was made in Akita Prefecture in the northern Tōhoku region, a mountainous area on the Sea of Japan. While the front is relatively plain, an elaborate pictorial design of a carp covers the back. The motif refers to a Chinese legend of a carp struggling up the “Dragon Gate” rapids in the upper Yellow River to be transformed into a dragon upon reaching the top. A motif especially popular with men, the carp is a symbol of determination and perseverance.
The dyer was a master of the craft, achieving the design through the use of multiple tie-dyeing methods (shibori), carefully planned out and executed to produce the desired composition. Specifically, the carp’s eye was created with bōshi shibori (capped tie-dyeing), the body features makiage shibori (winding tie-dyeing), the outlines employ orinui (folded and sewn), and the shading on the waterfall uses miura (looped) tie-dyeing.
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