blue jacket with two symbols on front chest and three across back; open front with two beige ties hanging down front; each beige symbol is a pair of interlocking diamond shapes in a circle

Long-sleeved jacket for kyōgen theater [from a set], early 20th century

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This costume with an unlined, long-sleeved jacket and matching voluminous trousers is known as suō. Its form is based on the everyday costume of soldiers. To make the pattern on the fabric, dyers use paper stencils treated with persimmon juice to selectively apply a rice paste through the cut-out areas, coating the undyed fabric to create the desired decorative design. After the paste dried, the fabric was immersed in dye and then washed to remove the resist paste. This resulted in clearly delineated patterns in white against a dyed background.

Details
Title
Long-sleeved jacket for kyōgen theater [from a set]
Role
Maker
Accession Number
2019.20.69.1
Catalogue Raisonne
Murray et al. 2018, pl. 88
Curator Approved

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blue jacket with two symbols on front chest and three across back; open front with two beige ties hanging down front; each beige symbol is a pair of interlocking diamond shapes in a circle