Cloth: hemp; katazome (stencil resist)expand_more
The John R. Van Derlip Fund and the Mary Griggs Burke Endowment Fund established by the Mary Livingston Griggs and Mary Griggs Burke Foundation; purchase from the Thomas Murray Collectionexpand_more 2019.20.69.1
This costume with an unlined, long-sleeved jacket and matching voluminous trousers is known as suō. Its form is based on the everyday costume of soldiers. To make the pattern on the fabric, dyers use paper stencils treated with persimmon juice to selectively apply a rice paste through the cut-out areas, coating the undyed fabric to create the desired decorative design. After the paste dried, the fabric was immersed in dye and then washed to remove the resist paste. This resulted in clearly delineated patterns in white against a dyed background.
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