blue and black coat with various patterned fabrics; black collar with gray lower lapels; black sleeves with white pattern, navy shoulders with stepped blue stitching, patterned blue chest with stepped embroidery along lower 2/3 and light blue diamond embroidery that continues to verso, solid blue lower section with stepped stritching; light blue lining on back interior; white lining on front interior sections with Japanese characters printed in black on PR and a large blue flower printed on PL; white PL sleeve interior lining with black print; verso has dark navy side panels, solid blue center panel with white pattern, stepped embroidery over all sections with light blue diamond embroidery only over TC

Farmer’s short coat (hanten) for winter, late 19th-early 20th century

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A farmer wore this coat to stay warm during the long winter months. It is made of two different cotton weaves: one is a plain-weave dyed with indigo for the side sections and the lower front section of the body, and the other is a double ikat (tate-yoko gasuri) pattern achieved by resist-dyeing sections of both the warp and weft thread prior to weaving, resulting in a pattern that emerges once woven together. While drawing on different techniques to add visual interest, one woven and the other embroidered (sashiko), the maker masterfully combined large panels and strips of the different textiles to create a harmonious and quietly dynamic garment.

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Details
Title
Farmer’s short coat (hanten) for winter
Role
Maker
Accession Number
2019.20.53
Catalogue Raisonne
Murray et al. 2018, pl. 100
Curator Approved

This record has been reviewed by our curatorial staff but may be incomplete. These records are frequently revised and enhanced. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about this object, please email collectionsdata@artsmia.org.

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blue and black coat with various patterned fabrics; black collar with gray lower lapels; black sleeves with white pattern, navy shoulders with stepped blue stitching, patterned blue chest with stepped embroidery along lower 2/3 and light blue diamond embroidery that continues to verso, solid blue lower section with stepped stritching; light blue lining on back interior; white lining on front interior sections with Japanese characters printed in black on PR and a large blue flower printed on PL; white PL sleeve interior lining with black print; verso has dark navy side panels, solid blue center panel with white pattern, stepped embroidery over all sections with light blue diamond embroidery only over TC