Woman’s fish-skin festival coat (hukht), 19th century
Unknown Nivkhexpand_more
The John R. Van Derlip Fund and the Mary Griggs Burke Endowment Fund established by the Mary Livingston Griggs and Mary Griggs Burke Foundation; purchase from the Thomas Murray Collectionexpand_more 2019.20.31
Not on Viewexpand_more
Art Champions
Conservation Cost $3,900.00
Mia has plans to feature this woman’s festival coat in the landmark exhibition, “Textiles of Japan,” opening October 2021, but it requires important conservation work before it can be safely displayed to the public.
Dating to the 1800s and made of fish skin, the coat testifies to the exceptional artistry and technical skill of makers within the Nivkh community, a semi-nomadic, indigenous ethnic group from the Amur River region of eastern Siberia. The Nivkh people harvested materials available to them in the region and turned to the skin of chum salmon or Amur carp to make clothing and shelter. The skin is removed in one piece and then dried, kneaded, and moistened in fish soup until supple. The result is a lightweight material that is also water and wind repellent and durable. These women’s festival coats (hukht) show a style reminiscent of neighboring Chinese and Manchu robes. Especially the backs are richly decorated with appliqué and embroidery of abstracted, animalistic designs that represent masks, birds, serpents, and dragons which design is also of Chinese origin.
Few of these coats have survived and this is one of the highlights of the upcoming Dressed by Nature exhibition. But the coat is quite dry and fragile, with several tears in need of repair. Some past conservation work on the coat is beginning to fail, and not visually integrated into the garment. A number of deep creases, where the coat has been folded, require steam treatments to relax. These treatments, in addition to an overall surface cleaning, will do much to restore this unique and important coat to its former glory.
Contact the Department of Japanese and Korean Art at JKA@artsmia.org or (612) 870-3214 to Champion this artwork.
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