tan robe with dark blue applique trim embellished with blue and white embroidery; embroidery along sleeve cuffs and bottom hems has intertwined oval pattern; embroidery at yoke and back center has smaller pattern with light blue patchwork; blue and white floral print collar; two dark blue ties at waist (PR hip and edge of PL center); printed blue and white tie at PR center edge

Attush robe with patterned collar, late 19th century

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Attush (elm bark) robes are made of plain-weave bast fiber made from the bark of the Manchurian elm (ohyō). Such robes were mainly created by the Ainu on Hokkaido, while those on Sakhalin predominantly worked with nettle fiber (irakusa). Harvesting the elm bark is a laborious and lengthy process for the textile maker. First, 5- to 6-inch-wide strips of bark are peeled off a young tree. After discarding the outer layer, the inner bark is soaked for around a week, then scraped and thoroughly washed. After drying in the sun, the fibers are carefully split, twisted, and tied into a skein. The resulting thread has a warm, yellowish-brown color. Like most bast fiber textiles, such as linen, these garments become more supple and soft with wear.

Details
Title
Attush robe with patterned collar
Role
Maker
Accession Number
2019.20.24
Provenance
Kaikodo (2013)
Catalogue Raisonne
Murray et al. 2018, pl. 14
Curator Approved

This record has been reviewed by our curatorial staff but may be incomplete. These records are frequently revised and enhanced. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about this object, please email collectionsdata@artsmia.org.

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tan robe with dark blue applique trim embellished with blue and white embroidery; embroidery along sleeve cuffs and bottom hems has intertwined oval pattern; embroidery at yoke and back center has smaller pattern with light blue patchwork; blue and white floral print collar; two dark blue ties at waist (PR hip and edge of PL center); printed blue and white tie at PR center edge