gold ground with metallic gold grid design; embroidered leaves and flowers in green, orange, royal blue, lavender, white and deep purple

Noh costume (nuihaku) with floral motifs, 18th century

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Nuihaku robes combine embroidered designs and applied gold or silver leaf and are used as costumes in the Japanese musical drama called Noh. Usually worn by male actors playing female roles, they serve as inner garments beneath an outer robe called a karaori. This example features a ground of gold leaf applied to the silk surface to form a geometric pattern, on top of which are embroidered clusters of floral motifs in green, white, orange, purple, and blue silk threads. Since these types of robes are often worn turned down at the waist and then covered with a sash, the designer of this robe left this area free of designs, in a style known as koshi-ake, which literally means “blank waist.”

Details
Title
Noh costume (nuihaku) with floral motifs
Role
Artist
Accession Number
2008.5.8
Curator Approved

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gold ground with metallic gold grid design; embroidered leaves and flowers in green, orange, royal blue, lavender, white and deep purple