Retarpe robe with detailed embroidery, 18th-19th century
Unknown Sakhalin Ainuexpand_more
Cloth: nettle fiber; cotton appliqué and embroideryexpand_more
The John R. Van Derlip Fund and the Mary Griggs Burke Endowment Fund established by the Mary Livingston Griggs and Mary Griggs Burke Foundation; purchase from the Thomas Murray Collectionexpand_more 2019.20.23
Not on Viewexpand_more
Ainu people did not cultivate plants for textiles; instead, they harvested them in the wild. Retarpe robes are made from plain-weave nettle fiber, a durable, warm, and light-colored material that offered Ainu women a neutral backdrop for their intricate embroidery and appliqué. The Sakhalin Ainu, a distinct group of people from the Ainu of Hokkaido, produced retarpe robes like this one. Because of their proximity to China, the Sakhalin Ainu were in contact with the Chinese government dating from the 14th century. They exchanged fur for Chinese silk, which Sakhalin Ainu women incorporated into their robes, along with Chinese textile design patterns. Simple garments that lack an elaborate design on the back were more regularly used and not confined to formal occasions.
Details
- Title
- Retarpe robe with detailed embroidery
- Role
- Maker
- Accession Number
- 2019.20.23
- Provenance
- Okamura Kichiemon (in 1993)
- Catalogue Raisonne
- Murray et al. 2018, pl. 2
- Curator Approved
This record has been reviewed by our curatorial staff but may be incomplete. These records are frequently revised and enhanced. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about this object, please email collectionsdata@artsmia.org.
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